Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Haller had engagements, which I had got him, to make four drawings for
English travellers. I made some on my own account, and there were
measurements to be taken and a few stones moved for the purpose, all of
which took time. We spent altogether ten days there, living on sheep and
butter, the only good butter I have tasted since leaving England, sold
to us by the few Albanian shepherds who lived near. Of an evening we
used to sit and smoke by a fire, talking to the shepherds till we were
ready for sleep, when we turned into our tent, which, though not exactly
comfortable, protected us from weather and from wolves. For there are
wolves--one of them one night tore a sheep to pieces close to us. We
pitched our tent under the north front. On the next day after our
arrival, the 25th, one of the primates of Andritzena came begging us to
desist from digging or moving stones, for that it might bring harm on
the town. This was very much what happened at Ægina. He did not specify
what harm, but asked who we were. We in reply said that we had firmans,
that it was not civil, therefore, to ask who we were, and that we were
not going to carry away the columns. When he heard of the firmans he
said he would do anything he could to help us. All the same, he seemed
to have given some orders to our guide against digging; for the
shepherds we engaged kept talking of the fear they were in, and at last
went away, one of them saying the work was distasteful to him. They were
no great loss, for they were so stupid that I was obliged to be always
with them and work too, in doing which I tore my hand and got
exceedingly fatigued. I was repaid by getting some important
measurements.
In looking about I found two very beautiful bas-reliefs under some
stones, which I took care to conceal again immediately."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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