Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A. — John Shaqi
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
This incident is described in greater detail by Stackelberg in the
preface to his book.[27] The interior of the temple--that is to say, the
space inside the columns--was a mass of fallen blocks of some depth.
While Haller and Cockerell with the labourers were scrambling about
among the ruins to get their measurements, a fox that had made its home
deep down amongst the stones, disturbed by the unusual noise, got up and
ran away. It is not quite a pleasant task to crawl down among such
insecure and ponderous masses of stone with the possibility of finding
another fox at the bottom; but Cockerell ventured in, and on scraping
away the accumulations where the fox had its lair, he saw by the light
which came down a crack among the stones, a bas-relief. I have heard
this story also from his own lips. Stackelberg further says that the
particular relief was that numbered 530 in the Phigaleian Marbles at the
British Museum, and naïvely adds, "indeed one may still trace on the
marble the injuries done by the fox's claws." He managed to make a rough
sketch of the slab and carefully covered it over again. From the
position in which it lay it was inferable that the whole frieze would
probably be found under the dilapidations.
"Early one morning some armed shepherds came looking about for a lost
sheep. They eventually found it dead not far from our tent, and torn to
pieces by a wolf--as I mentioned before. The day being Sunday we saw
some grand specimens of the Arcadian shepherds. They stalk about with a
gun over their shoulders and a long pistol in the waist, looking very
savage and wild--and so they are: but, wild as they may be, they still
retain the names which poetry has connected with all that is idyllic and
peaceful. Alexis is one of the commonest.
As our labourers had left us, there was nothing for it but to work
ourselves. We were doing so and had just lit upon some beautiful
caissons, when a man on horseback, Greek or Turk (they dress so much
alike there is no distinguishing them), rode up accompanied by four
Albanians all armed. He told us he was the owner of the land, and,
although he was very civil about it, he forbade our digging any more. We
asked him to eat with us, but being a fast day in the Greek Church, he
declined. Finally, after writing to Andritzena, he left us.
After so many objections being made to our excavations we felt it would
be too dangerous to go on at present, and promised ourselves to come
again next year in a stronger party and armed with more peremptory and
explicit authority to dig, and in the meantime there was nothing to do
but to get through our drawings and studies as quickly as we could.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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