Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Here we hired a boat; but, hearing firing in the Bogas, which we could
only attribute to a pirate, we were not without some qualms at starting.
With this in our heads, when we saw a large caique making directly
towards us, we were naturally enough alarmed and made for the mouth of
the Meander, and there remained till the bark came up and proved itself
to be only a fishing caique. Setting forward again with a very strong
wind, we reached the port of Geronta after dark. The boatman mistook the
entrance and very nearly ran us on to a rock some distance from the
shore, upon which he got into a fright and lost all presence of mind.
The wind, as I said, being very high, the position was so serious that
Marschall and I took the management of the bark, and giving the man a
cuff sent him forward to look out for the port. In this fashion we found
it and got in. Even then we were not well off, for the place was
perfectly solitary, and we had no mind to remain all night in the boat.
It grew extremely dark, and it was an hour and a half before we could
find the village. On the way to it, we passed the massive remains of the
Temple of Apollo Didymæus, and as they loomed through the darkness they
looked very grand--grander than I thought them next morning by daylight.
The village of Geronta is only about thirty years old and is inhabited
entirely by Albanian and Greek immigrants who seem fairly prosperous.
The pasha, Elis Oglu, like his neighbour Karasman Oglu, is a great
patron of Greeks. We set sail at night, but had to put back, after a
hard night, to a port close to Geronta and wait there three days till
the weather improved.
When at last we got away, in five hours we were off Cape Ciron, which
ends in a lofty hill by which is Knidos. At my request the captain went
into the port, and very glad I was to see the place; the situation is so
curious: but I found no inscription or antiquities of any kind. I slept
in the boat, and we started at midnight. The wind was furious; and as
the bark laboured and strained in the waves, Dimitri groaned with fear.
It was indeed far from pleasant; but as the day came on the wind went
down, till we were absolutely becalmed off the little island of Symi,
and did not get into Rhodes till afternoon.
I was preparing to go to visit the consul, and had walked a few yards
in that direction when I saw another boat come into port, and in it, to
my surprise, who but Mr. North. He was as astonished as myself, and as
pleased. We went together to the consul's. There we had long
conversation on the subject of the island, its inhabitants, products,
&c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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