Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
The present governor of Rhodes is Hassan Bey, slave of a previous
governor--a man of great simplicity of life. I found him sitting in the
passage of his palace without attendants or pomp. Although he is about
seventy years old and deaf, he received as a present, by the same boat
as Mr. North came in, a female slave. He builds ships here for
Government, and has one, a frigate, for his own behoof, which he uses
himself for piratical purposes while with it he clears the neighbouring
seas of all other pirates.
Two days after, I left Rhodes and sailed eastwards with a light breeze,
till in the evening we were becalmed off the Seven Capes. In the morning
I was awakened by strange voices on board. We had been boarded by
Hydriotes inquiring for corn. Their ship had been lying off the coast
for some days, boarding every boat that passed for corn. She was a large
ship with a crew of sixty men, who seemed to spend all their time in
merrily dancing and fiddling. We rowed into the port, which is a fine
harbour, and when I had landed I found a boy to undertake to guide us
to Patara. It took two hours to walk there, keeping all the way by the
side of an aqueduct. We met a few savage-looking Turks armed, and a boy
or two playing on wild simple reeds. The whole country was very wild and
desolate, and the road a mere track.
The ruins are considerable, and, although none of them belong to the
finest time, very interesting. They have an inexpressibly forlorn
appearance, standing as they do half buried in the sand. The once
extensive port is entirely silted up.
The theatre is half filled up. I found in it an inscription, from which
I gathered that the auditorium is of later date than the proscenium.
Near the head of the port are two large mausolea, at least I suppose
that is what they are; and besides these there are the remains of
fortifications of the Lower Empire and of several churches. I could not
get over to examine the buildings on the opposite side of the port.
We started for Castel Rosso, but were becalmed. The boys played and
danced, and we did not get in till the evening. The port, a poor one, is
defended by a castle which is red, whence the name. The few savages we
found on the beach received us with great suspicion, with arms in their
hands, but sold us some provisions. In the morning I landed and looked
about. Inside the walls there are many ruins of houses, all of the
Lower Empire, while the walls themselves are of much earlier date in
cyclopean masonry. Outside the old walls and in the modern town there
are several ancient tombs that have been respected and are in good
preservation. The ground is incredibly rugged and stony, almost as bad
as Maina.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account