Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
I endeavoured fruitlessly to obtain oxen or elephants to carry our
baggage with a view of exploring the country, but all beasts of
burden were in use for the rice-harvest. I therefore left my boat
and its contents in charge of the Laotian family, and we set off,
like pilgrims, on foot for Patawi on a fine morning with a somewhat
cloudy sky, which recalled to me the pleasant autumn days of my own
country. My only companions were Küe and my young Laotian guide. We
followed for three hours, through forests infested with wild beasts,
the road to Korat, and at last reached Patawi. As at Phrabat, there
is a bell, both at the foot of the mount and at the entrance of a
long and wide avenue leading to the pagoda, which the pilgrims ring
on arriving, to inform the good genii of their presence and bespeak a
favourable hearing to their prayers. The mount is isolated, and about
450 feet in height; its formation is similar to that of Phrabat, but,
although its appearance is equally grand, it presents distinct points
of variation. Here are not to be seen those masses of rock, piled one
upon another, as if hurled by the giants in a combat like that fabled
of old. Patawi seems to be composed of one enormous rock, which rises
almost perpendicularly like a wall, excepting the centre portion, which
towards the south hangs over like a roof, projecting eighteen or twenty
feet. At the first glance might be recognised the action of water upon
a soil originally clay.
[Illustration:
Drawn By M. Catenacci, from a sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF KORAT, TAKEN FROM PATAWI.]
VISIT TO PATAWI.
There are many footprints similar to those of Phrabat, and in several
places are to be seen entire trunks of trees in a state of petrifaction
lying close to growing individuals of the same species. They have all
the appearance of having been just felled, and it is only on testing
their hardness with a hammer that one feels sure of not being mistaken.
An ascent of several large stone steps leads, on the left hand, to
the pagoda, and, on the right, to the residence of the Talapoins, or
priests, who are three in number,--a superior and two assistants,
appointed to watch and pay reverence to the precious “rays” of
Somanakodom. Were the authors who have written about Buddhism ignorant
of the signification of the word “ray” employed by the Buddhists? Now,
in the Siamese language, the same word which means “ray” signifies
also shadow, and it is through respect for their deity that the first
meaning is applied.
The priests were much surprised to see a “farang” (foreigner) in their
pagoda, but some trifling gifts soon established me in their good
graces. The superior was particularly charmed with a magnet which I
gave him, and amused himself with it for a long time, uttering cries of
delighted admiration as he saw it attract and pick up all the little
pieces of metal which he placed near it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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