Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 1 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
I went to the extreme north of the mount, where some generous being has
kindly had constructed, for the shelter of travellers, a hall, such as
is found in many places near pagodas. The view here is indescribably
splendid, and I cannot pretend to do justice either with pen or pencil
to the grand scenes which here and elsewhere were displayed before
my eyes. I can but seize the general effect and some of the details;
all I can promise to do is to introduce nothing which I have not
seen. Hitherto all the views I had seen in Siam had been limited in
extent, but here the beauty of the country is exhibited in all its
splendour. Beneath my feet was a rich and velvety carpet of brilliant
and varied colours; an immense tract of forest, amidst which the fields
of rice and the unwooded spots appeared like little streaks of green;
beyond, the ground, rising gradually, swells into hills of different
elevations; farther still to the north and east, in the form of a
semicircle, is the mountain-chain of Phrabat and that of the kingdom
of Muang-Lôm; and in the extreme distance those of Korat, fully sixty
miles distant. All these join one another, and are, in fact, but a
single range. But how describe the varieties of form among all these
peaks! In one place they seem to melt into the vapoury rose-tints of
the horizon, while nearer at hand the peculiar structure and colour
of the rocks bring out more strongly the richness of the vegetation;
there, again are deep shadows vying with the deep blue of the heaven
above; everywhere those brilliant sunny lights, those delicate hues,
those warm tones, which make the _tout ensemble_ perfectly enchanting.
The spectacle is one which the eye of a painter can seize and revel in,
but which his brush, however skilful, can transfer most imperfectly to
his canvas.
At the sight of this unexpected panorama a cry of admiration burst
simultaneously from all mouths. Even my poor companions, generally
insensible to the beauties of nature, experienced a moment of ecstacy
at the sublimity of the scene. “Oh! _di, di_” (beautiful), cried my
young Laotian guide; and when I asked Küe what he thought of it,
“Oh! master,” he replied, in his mixed jargon of Latin, English, and
Siamese, “the Siamese see Buddha on a stone, and do not see God in
these grand things. I am pleased to have been to Patawi.”
On the opposite side, viz. the south, the picture is different. Here
is a vast plain, which extends from the base of Patawi and the other
mountains beyond Ayuthia, whose high towers are visible in the
distance, 120 miles off. At the first glance one distinguishes what was
formerly the bed of the sea, this great plain having taken the place of
an ancient gulf: proof of which is afforded by numerous marine shells,
many of which I collected in a perfect state of preservation; while the
rocks, with their footprints and fossil shells, are indicative of some
great change at a still earlier period.
[Illustration: LAOTIAN.]
THE LAOTIANS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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