Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
There is here an immense plain, almost a desert, which in the best
season takes six days to cross with elephants, and twelve with waggons.
As for us, we set out on the 5th March, and only reached Muang-Kabine
on the 28th; and oh! what we suffered from ennui, from heat, from
attacks of mosquitoes, and want of water. In addition to these miseries
my feet became like a jelly; and, when we arrived at our destination, I
could scarcely drag myself along, or keep up with the slow but regular
step of the buffaloes.
Some days before reaching Muang-Kabine we had to ford a small river,
the Bang-Chang, and here we obtained some good water; but all the rest
of the journey we had nothing but the water from the muddy pools,
serving for baths and drinking-places to all the buffaloes of the
caravan. When I drank it, or used it for cooking or tea, I purified
it with a little alum, a better method than filtering. Every day some
accident happened to our waggons, which was one cause of our being so
long on the road.
On our arrival at Muang-Kabine we found great excitement prevailing
on account of a recent discovery of gold-mines, which had attracted
to the place a number of Laotians, Chinese, and Siamese. The mines
of Battambong, being less rich, are not so much frequented. From
Muang-Kabine I continued my route to Paknam, where I hired a boat to
take me to Bangkok.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW IN THE GULF OF SIAM.]
The first day’s navigation was very tedious, the water being shallow,
and the sand-banks in many places bare, but the day following we were
able to lay aside our poles, and take to the oars. The stream takes a
bend towards the south, and empties itself into the gulf a little above
Petrin, a district which produces all the sugar of Siam, which is sold
at Bangkok.
This canal connects the Menam and the Bang-Chang, which afterwards
takes the name of Bang-Pakong; it is nearly sixty miles in length, and
was the work of a clever Siamese general, the same who, twenty years
ago, retook Battambong from the Cochin-Chinese. He is also noted for
having constructed a fine road from Paknam to Ongcor-Borige, the place
where the great inundations have their limit. This road I could not
make use of, for at this season I should have found neither water nor
grass for my oxen.
On the banks of the Bang-Pakong are several Cambodian villages, peopled
by prisoners from Battambong; and along the canal, on either side, is
a mixed, and for this country numerous population, of Malays, Laotians
from the peninsula, and Laotians from Vien-Chan, a district on the
banks of the Mekong, north-east of Korat, and now depopulated by
frequent revolts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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