Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
Although overburdened with taxes, yet, to judge from their clean and
comfortable dwellings, and a certain air of well-doing which reigns in
these villages, the inhabitants must enjoy some degree of prosperity,
especially since the impulse given to commerce by the Europeans settled
in the capital.
The water was so thickly covered with weeds that our progress was much
impeded, and we were three days in the canal; while, after May, it only
takes the same time to go from Paknam to Bangkok.
ARRIVAL AT BANGKOK.
On the 4th April I returned to the capital, after fifteen months’
absence. During the greater part of this time I had never known the
comfort of sleeping in a bed; and throughout my wanderings my only food
had been rice or dried fish, and I had not once tasted good water. I
was astonished at having preserved my health so well, particularly
in the forests, where, often wet to the skin, and without a change
of clothes, I have had to pass whole nights by a fire at the foot
of a tree; yet I have not had a single attack of fever, and been
always happy and in good spirits, especially when lucky enough to
light upon some novelty. A new shell or insect filled me with a joy
which ardent naturalists alone can understand; but they know well how
little fatigues and privations of all kinds are cared for when set
against the delight experienced in making one discovery after another,
and in feeling that one is of some slight assistance to the votaries
of science. It pleases me to think that my investigations into the
archæology, entomology, and conchology of these lands may be of use
to certain members of the great and generous English nation, who
kindly encouraged the poor naturalist; whilst France, his own country,
remained deaf to his voice.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch taken by M. Mouhot in the residence
of the Prime Minister.
CEREMONY, ON A YOUNG SIAMESE COMING OF AGE, OF THE REMOVAL OF THE TUFT.]
NEWS FROM EUROPE.
It was another great pleasure to me, after these fifteen months of
travelling, during which very few letters from home had reached me, to
find, on arriving at Bangkok, an enormous packet, telling me all the
news of my distant family and country. It is indeed happiness, after
so long a period of solitude, to read the lines traced by the beloved
hands of an aged father, of a wife, of a brother. These joys are to be
reckoned among the sweetest and purest of life.
We stopped in the centre of the town, at the entrance of a canal,
whence there is a view over the busiest part of the Menam. It was
almost night, and silence reigned around us; but when at daybreak I
rose and saw the ships lying at anchor in the middle of the stream,
while the roofs of the palaces and pagodas reflected the first rays of
the sun, I thought that Bangkok had never looked so beautiful. However,
life here would never suit me, and the mode of locomotion is wearisome
after an active existence among the woods and in the chase.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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