Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
If the taste of the architect of the king’s palace has failed in the
design of its interior, here, at least, he has made the best of all the
advantages offered to him by nature. A hammer touching the walls would
have disfigured them; he had only to level the ground, and to make
staircases to aid the descent into the grottoes, and enable the visitor
to see them in all their beauty.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
GROTTO AT PECHABURI.]
The largest and most picturesque of the caverns has been made into a
temple. All along the sides are rows of idols, one of superior size,
representing Buddha asleep, being gilt.
We came down from the mountain just at the moment of the king’s
arrival. Although his stay was not intended to exceed two days, he was
preceded by a hundred slaves carrying an immense number of coffers,
boxes, baskets, &c. A disorderly troop of soldiers marched both in
front and behind, dressed in the most singular and ridiculous costumes
imaginable. The emperor Soulouque himself would have laughed, for
certainly his old guard must have made a better appearance than that of
his East Indian brother. Nothing could give a better idea of this
set of tatterdemalions than the dressed-up monkeys which dance upon the
organs of the little Savoyards. Their apparel of coarse red cloth upper
garments, which left a part of the body exposed, in every case either
too large or too small, too long or too short, with white shakos, and
pantaloons of various colours; as for shoes, they were a luxury enjoyed
by few.
A few chiefs, whose appearance was quite in keeping with that of their
men, were on horseback, leading this band of warriors, whilst the king,
attended by slaves, slowly advanced in a little open carriage drawn by
a pony.
PLAGUE OF MOSQUITOES.
I visited several hills detached from the great chain Khao Deng, which
is only a few miles off. During my stay here it has rained continually,
and I have had to wage war with savage foes, from whom I never before
suffered so much. Nothing avails against them; they let themselves
be massacred, with a courage worthy of nobler beings. I speak of
mosquitoes. Thousands of these cruel insects suck our blood night and
day. My body, face, and hands are covered with wounds and blisters. I
would rather have to deal with the wild beasts of the forest. At times
I howl with pain and exasperation. No one can imagine the frightful
plague of these little demons, to whom Dante has omitted to assign a
place in his infernal regions. I scarcely dare to bathe, for my body
is covered before I can get into the water. The natural philosopher
who held up these little animals as examples of parental love was
certainly not tormented as I have been.
THE LAOTIANS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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