Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860 — John Shaqi
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860Mouhot, Henri
History
Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2): During the Years 1858, 1859, and 1860
Mouhot, Henri
Cambodia -- Description and travel; Khmer language; Natural history -- Indochina; Thailand -- Description and travel
The king was expected there the same day, to visit a palace which he
has had built on the summit of a hill near the town. Khrom Luang,
Kalahom (prime minister), and a large number of mandarins had already
assembled. Seeing us arrive, the prince called to us from his pretty
little house; and as soon as we had put on more suitable dresses
we waited on him, and he entered into conversation with us till
breakfast-time. He is an excellent man, and, of all the dignitaries of
the country, the one who manifests least reserve and hauteur towards
Europeans. In education, both this prince and the king are much
advanced, considering the state of the country; but in their manners
they have little more refinement than the people generally.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Thérond, from a Photograph.
HALL OF AUDIENCE, PALACE OF BANGKOK.]
PECHABURI.
Our first walk was to the hill on which the palace stands. Seen from a
little distance, this building, of European construction, presents a
very striking appearance; and the winding path which leads up to it has
been admirably contrived amidst the volcanic rocks, basalt, and scoria
which cover the surface of this ancient crater.
About twenty-five miles off, stretches from north to south a chain of
mountains called Deng, and inhabited by the independent tribes of the
primitive Kariens. Beyond these rise a number of still higher peaks. On
the low ground are forests, palm-trees, and rice-fields, the whole rich
and varied in colour. Lastly, to the south and east, and beyond another
plain, lies the gulf, on whose waters, fading away into the horizon, a
few scattered sails are just distinguishable.
It was one of those sights not to be soon forgotten, and the king has
evinced his taste in the selection of such a spot for his palace. No
beings can be less poetical or imaginative than the Indo-Chinese; their
hearts never appear to expand to the genial rays of the sun; yet they
must have some appreciation of this beautiful scenery, as they always
fix upon the finest sites for their pagodas and palaces.
GROTTOES.
Quitting this hill, we proceeded to another, like it an extinct volcano
or upheaved crater. Here are four or five grottoes, two of which are
of surprising extent, and extremely picturesque. A painting which
represented them faithfully would be supposed the offspring of a
fertile imagination; no one would believe it to be natural. The rocks,
long in a state of fusion, have taken, in cooling, those singular forms
peculiar to scoria and basalt. Then, after the sea had retreated--for
all these rocks have risen from the bottom of the water--owing to the
moisture continually dripping through the damp soil, they have taken
the richest and most harmonious colours. These grottoes, moreover,
are adorned by such splendid stalactites, which, like columns, seem
to sustain the walls and roofs, that one might fancy oneself present
at one of the beautiful fairy scenes represented at Christmas in the
London theatres.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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