Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
In spite of the freshness and coolness of mountain air, it has been very
hot these last two days. On the plains, the people say the heat is now
overpowering.
There is scarcely any natural produce about. A few sheep and goats, a
camel or two, and a few asses, are all the animals I have seen. The
fig-trees produce something, but I have seen no prickly-pears, which
support many poor families on The Coast, during several months every
year. The olive plantations are the principal resource of these poor
mountaineers, which are also a sensible relief for the eye on these bare
heights. In the houses there is hardly anything to be got. No pepper, no
onions, no meat killed or sold. No bread can be obtained for love or
money. I laid in a stock of fresh bread in Tripoli for a fortnight, but
my gluttonous camel driver devoured all in three or four days! There were
no less than fifty twopenny loaves. He was accustomed to eat in the
night, when I was asleep, and used to threaten to beat Said if he
blabbed. I mentioned the circumstance after, to the Rais of Ghadames, who
observed: "If you had brought a thousand loaves, all would have been
devoured."
Notwithstanding this abject poverty, a bullying tax-gatherer, with half a
dozen louting soldiers, have been up here prowling about, and wresting
with violence the means of supporting life from these miserable beings.
The scenes which I witness are heart-rending, beyond all I have heard of
Irish misery and rent-distraining bullies. One man had his camel seized,
the only support of his family; another his bullock; another a few
bushels of barley: the houses were entered, searched, and ransacked;
people were dragged by the throat through the villages, and beaten with
sticks; and all because the poor wretches had no money to meet the
demands of these voracious bailiffs. Poverty is, indeed, here a crime.
One poor old woman had a few bad unripe figs seized, and came to me, and
a group of wretched villagers, crying out bitterly. One or two men, who
were imagined to have something, though they had nothing, were held by
the throat until they were nearly suffocated. I cursed over and over
again in my heart the Turks. I was not prepared for such scenes of
cruelty in these remote mountains. We shall find, that amongst the
so-called barbarians of The Desert there was nothing equal in atrocity to
this. What wonder that the Arab prefers, if he can, to pasture his flocks
on savage and remote wastes to being subjected to these regular
Governments--of extortion! And yet we, in our ignorance of what is here
going on, are surprised at their preference. If the people are not ready
with their money, the little barley, their winter's store, is seized, and
they must pay afterwards their usual quotas of money. Several bags of
barley are illegally gotten in this way. The amount of tax or tribute for
the whole district of Rujban is five or six hundred mahboubs, which is
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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