Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846Richardson, James
History
Travels in the Great Desert of Sahara, in the Years of 1845 and 1846
Richardson, James
Sahara -- Description and travel
paid in three instalments, three times a year; but, which though nothing
in amount, is more than all the people are worth together, for riches and
poverty are relative possessions, if the latter can be possessed. If they
can't pay in money they pay in kind. The Sheikh of the district, with
the elders, determine how much each man and family shall pay. This, of
course, gives rise to ten thousand disputes, heart-burnings, and eternal
wranglings amongst themselves. The Arabs, on these occasions, however
silent and sulky they may be on others, show that they have the gift of
speech, as well as Frenchmen and Italians. Then, indeed, God's thunder
can't be heard. Marabouts do not pay these taxes. This is a privilege of
religion, which successfully exerts itself against the oppressive arm of
the civil power. Such privilege has been enjoyed in all ages and
countries. My camel-driver is a Marabout, and is consequently exempt. I
rallied him upon his privilege, and he replied: "The villains are afraid
to come here; see my flag-staff and green flag, they dare not come over
my threshold--God would strike them down!" It is impossible to tell how
much of the five hundred mahboubs gets into the treasury of Government,
but, I am told, a good portion gets into the pockets of the officials.
The whole administration of The Mountains, and the Saharan oases of
Tripoli, is conducted on the same principles of finance and extortion.
I am lodged in the house of my camel-driver. The women show the greatest
curiosity to see me, and declare that I am more beautiful (_bahea_) than
they. They wonderingly admire everything I have. The greater part of
these women never left their mountain-homes--never saw a Christian or
European before--and this is the reason of their surprise at my
appearance. The children, of course, are equally astonished, but are too
frightened to reflect steadily on an European. Both the women and men say
it is _maktoub_, ("predestination") which has brought me amongst them,
and they are right. These poor people are very civil to me. In my quality
of tabeeb they consult me. The prevailing disease is sore eyes. Two
children were brought to me, a girl with a dropsy of a year's standing,
and a boy with only one testiculum, for neither of which did I prescribe.
The employment of the men is camel-driving between Tripoli and Ghadames.
Agriculture, there is scarcely any. The women weave barracans or holees
for their husbands, themselves, and children, and for sale. They are
mostly dirty, and ill-clothed. The men have but a single barracan to
cover them, one or two may have a shirt; the children are nearly naked;
and the women wear a woollen frock, charms round their necks, armlets,
and anclets, sometimes throwing a slight barracan or sefsar round their
heads and shoulders. I observed, however, that often women wear great
leather boots, made of red leather or camel's skin. None of them were
pretty, but some were fine-looking, with aquiline noses, and rolling
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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