Travels in Turkey and back to EnglandChishull, Edmund
History
Travels in Turkey and back to England
Chishull, Edmund
Turkey -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
The fabric of the whole castle is very strong, and the advantage of
a hill, which is on all sides a mile high, must have rendered it
impregnable, in an age which knew not the use of gunpowder. It was
formerly fortified with a considerable number of great guns, which are
now removed to the new castle, which defends the bay of _Smyrna_. Two
only remain on a bastion, that fronts the city; on both which we were
sorry to see the eagles of the Roman empire. No other apartment of the
castle is now kept locked, except a dungeon, in which there were twelve
prisoners, lately sent thither by _Osmánogli_. A sight of these miserable
wretches we desired of the _agá_, nor was he so scrupulous as to deny it
us. The same _agá_ likewise shewed us within the precincts of the castle
a poor Christian church, dedicated to the memory of _St. John_; where the
Greeks meet upon the day of his feast, and are at the constant charge of
two lamps, which burn there throughout the year. We had read and heard
of a collection of Roman arms, reserved somewhere in this castle; tho
being upon the place, nothing of this nature occurred to us. But _Solymán
effendi_, a most courteous and obliging person, whom we visited this
evening, as being the next neighbour, as well as brother of our landlord,
assured us, that having many years since had the curiosity to ascend the
castle hill, he then saw under ground the collection which we spake of,
consisting of headpieces, breastplates, shields, and the like.
The mountainous parts about _Magnesia_ were antiently famous for the
production of the loadstone[14]; tho indeed it is disparaged by
_Pliny_[15], and accounted less attractive, than that of other places.
However this probably was the city, from whence, as _Lucretius_ says,
that stone took the name of _magnet_[16]; as from the whole country of
_Lydia_ the touchstone likewise was called _lapis Lydius_[17]. This hint
gave us the curiosity to carry a sea compass up the castle hill, where we
had the satisfaction to see it point to different quarters, as we then
placed it upon different stones, and quickly after intirely to lose its
whole virtue; two effects which are natural to the magnetic needle, when
injured by the nearness of other bodies impregnated with the same quality.
Late in the evening we were now preparing for repose, and endeavouring
to forget the fatigue of the castle hill; when _Solymán effendi_, having
laid aside the badges of his character, and put on a more familiar
temper, returned our visit. We doubted not from the change of his habit,
and the unseasonableness of the hour, but he came to break a Mahometan
commandment, and _steal his kief_ (as the Turks pleasantly express it) in
the juice of the forbidden grape[18]. This was a tedious and ungrateful
task, with which nevertheless, by reason of his own and his brother’s
great civility, some of our company were forced to comply. Nor had the
wine he freely drank its desired effect, till towards two a clock in the
morning.
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