“Beyond this we got out of the right road, and meeting only a few
darkeys, whose horizon was not extensive, traveled half a day before
we were set right. We passed Cedar Run at a dangerous ford, and came
to a plantation where there is a copper mine worked intermittently,
a narrow vein. Following the direction, “keep straight on” (nobody
thinks the stranger can be quite as ignorant as he says he is), we
crossed Acquia Creek, and reached Fredericksburg. The public buildings
of Fredericksburg--church, market house and court house--we found in
bad condition, not because they had been damaged directly by the war,
but simply because during the war there had been no use made of them.
Tobacco was bringing a small price here, and at a sure profit to the
buyers. No ships were in and taxes were due; the price had been knocked
down to 25 shillings the hundred. The same at Alexandria. Hunter’s
Iron Works, near Fredericksburg, at the falls above Falmouth, is one
of the finest and most extensive works of this sort in America. There
is a rolling and a slitting mill, both very ingeniously contrived, and
of this description of iron works there have been up to this time only
one or two established in all America. Under the British rule such
enterprises were forbidden. Past Fredericksburg, we had the honor to
breakfast with an American general, whose attire was conspicuous--a
large white chapeau, a blue coat, a brown waistcoat and green breeches
decorated him, and he a short, fat man.
“From this point on towards Richmond the country is open and level,
and adorned with many large and at times tasteful dwellings. The
rich Virginians do not prefer a town life. Here and there we passed
large wheat fields. Several years before the war, owing to the heavy
English import duties on tobacco, the people had begun to raise wheat
on a more extensive scale. Here, as in other parts of America, the
cornfields are seeded to wheat without removing the stalks. The weevil
is bad, especially if the grain lies long in the straw. After floating
off the light seed the good, heavy grain is broadcasted, mixed with
shell lime. Between Fredericksburg and Richmond we noticed a good many
swampy spots, which might easily be drained. We met on this road, to
our great surprise, two Alsatians traveling along on foot, with their
bundles slung behind. They had come into the Chesapeake on a French
ship, and were seeking their fortune in Virginia. A foot passenger is
a very unusual sight in Virginia. Passing Hanover Courthouse (December
18, 1783) and Hanover Town, we came to Richmond. On this road we were
struck with the little provision made for the winter feeding of cattle.
How easy it would be to lay down grass. Near Richmond we saw mules,
the first pair. Mules, being found well adapted to the country, are
beginning to be used a good deal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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