“Richmond, before 1779 not a very important town, is built on two
heights, separated by a creek called Shokoes. The houses are in general
of wood, and are irregularly scattered about. A recent census gives the
number as 280, and the population about 2,000. The falls of the James
engaged my curiosity first. The total fall of the river from Westham
to Richmond (7 miles) is only seventy-one feet, and hence there is
no stupendous cataract. But the falls as a whole, over innumerable
boulders, between winding wooded banks, present a great and striking
appearance. The sound of the water, particularly at night, is heard not
only through the entire town, but before the wind for several miles
around. At the falls innumerable herring and shad are caught early in
spring, and at times even in February. These appear in the Delaware and
the Hudson not before the middle of April or the first of May. James
River is one of the greatest and most beautiful of American streams.
“During my stay at Richmond the Assembly was in session. A small frame
building serves as House of Assembly, and with a change of properties
as ballroom and banquet room. The term is used, ‘the Assembly sits.’
This does not seem to me to be precisely descriptive. The members
appeared to me to be anywhere rather than in their seats, and to be
discussing anything except laws to be framed. The doorkeeper was
busy, and in the vestibule there was an uproar. The vestments of the
members are diverse--boots, trousers, Indian leggings, great-coats, the
usual coat, and short jackets. In other words, each one wears what he
pleases. The members from the West are greatly inconvenienced in coming
so far. They even speak of establishing a separate government for the
West, as in the province of New York, where there is a Governor at New
York and another at Albany. If this is done, the West will very likely
become in a short time an independent State. The pay of members has
recently been fixed at 18 Virginia shillings or 3 Spanish dollars per
diem. During the war they preferred tobacco (50 pounds) to currency.
At a vote, the Speaker calls for the Ayes and Noes, and judges with
a critical ear which side has made the majority of sounds. If the
predominance is a matter of doubt a division is called.
“I stopped at the Tavern Formicola, which was naturally much crowded
at that season. Every evening there came generals, colonels, captains,
senators, delegates, judges, doctors, clerks and gentlemen of every
weight and calibre to sit around the fire, drink, smoke, sing and swap
anecdotes. Very entertaining, but Formicola’s not being a spacious
house, I found the crowd embarrassing. There is only one newspaper
published at Richmond; this paper appears twice a week.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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