Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
Strange Articles of Food--Native Cookery--The River Amissa--Reception
by the Caboceer of Amissa--Soil, Fruits, &c.--An Adventure--Visit
from a Hyena--The River Anaqua--Arsafah--Soil, Fruits, &c.--Beautiful
Birds--Moors and Arabs here--Cattle--Return to Cape Coast--Hospitable
Reception there--Invitation from the King of Ashantee--My Reply--Visit
the Neighbourhood of Cape Coast--Coffee Plantations--Indolence
of the Natives--The Town of Napoleon--Eyau Awkwano--Fruits
Growing Spontaneously--Bad Roads--Singular Mode of Carrying
Timber--Cotton Trees--The Dwarf Cotton Shrub--Scene of a Sanguinary
Battle--Djewkwa--Native Houses--An Intoxicated Caboceer--The
Caboceer’s Presents--Account of him--Return to Cape Coast--Sail for
Whydah--Winnebah Method of Curing Fish--Natives--Stock--Neighbouring
Country--The Devil’s Hill--Soil--Yanwin (samphire)--The River
Jensu--Beautiful Birds--The King-fisher.
At 4 A.M. we resumed our journey to the River Amissa, distant three
miles. Our road passed over loose sand, and was very fatiguing to the
traveller. After walking about two miles, we came to a small lake,
where we found two fishermen busily engaged in cutting up a very
large shark, which they said they were dividing into so many cowries’
worth, or, as we should say, two pennyworths. Here “all is fish that
comes to net.” They eat anything; alligators, alligators’ eggs, dogs,
monkeys, cats,--in fact, there are few things they will not devour as
a meal. Their method of cooking is certainly very good. Their soups
and stews are wholesome; and their palm-soup is delicious, either made
with fish or fowl; it is seasoned with palm-oil and pepper. Kankie, a
sort of bread made from the Indian corn, coarsely ground, is the most
common food, as wheaten bread is in Europe. Of vegetables they have
great varieties: yams, cassada, or manioc root, sweet potatoes, and
plantains, as well as many other herbs used for soups. We saw at this
place the remains of a very large whale, which had been driven on shore
some time before.
After passing along the beach, still on the loose sand, about one mile,
we reached the river Amissa, which might more correctly be called a
lake. The whole of the party except myself were carried across by the
same men who had carried them the previous part of the journey; but
I, having no carriers, was ferried across by one of the chief’s or
caboceer’s canoes, which happened to be on the lake. After crossing it,
we immediately proceeded to the kroom, or village, named, from the lake
or river, Amissa. Here the old caboceer received us very kindly, and
soon cleared out a house for our accommodation. We then walked round
the village, which is pleasantly situated on a good soil, differing
from any I had seen on the coast farther westward. It is black, loamy,
and very rich and fertile, bearing many large trees of different kinds,
such as cocoas, bananas, and plantains, in great abundance. Pine-apples
come up spontaneously.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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