Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
After walking round the kroom, we went to the river to bathe, and
found that it had risen considerably since we crossed it, as the sea,
when near high water, flows into it. It has here, however, nearly
banked itself off. The water of this lake is very salt, although it is
constantly fed by a freshwater stream from the N.W. This river forms a
lagoon at a short distance from the sea, eastwards. On returning to our
lodgings, which had nothing but bare walls, we made a hearty supper,
sitting or lying on the ground or floor, and were afterwards joined
by the good old caboceer over a glass of grog, which he very readily
accepted, accompanied by some of his captains. Thus we amused ourselves
till twelve o’clock, when one of our party having got a little too
much, became rather quarrelsome, and by some accident upset the candle,
so that we were left in total darkness, for as the hut had no windows,
we were not benefited by the moonlight. The old caboceer seemed much
alarmed, and clasped me tightly round the waist with both his arms
for protection. A light was, however, soon procured by help of a
lucifer-match, and lo! all the old chief’s captains had deserted him,
supposing the light had been purposely extinguished for some hostile
design. The old man, however, was soon convinced of the contrary, and
I escorted him home to his house, which differed from those already
described only by having the fire-place inside instead of outside of
it. When I returned all the party lay down to rest till the morning.
I had borrowed a grass mat from the caboceer, and the others lay in
their baskets. Musquitoes, however, were so numerous that we could get
no rest; at about half-past two A.M. my friend Mr. Brewe and his wife
were entirely driven out, and made an attempt to sleep in the street,
but found their tormentors still more numerous there; whereupon, they
resolved upon beating a retreat back to Annamaboe. However, as I had
already walked twelve miles in a scorching sun and over a miserable
road, I felt no inclination to accompany them, particularly as we had
not yet seen any thing of the neighbouring country. Besides which, we
had not finished our intended journey.
My remonstrances, however, were in vain. Mr. Brewe had determined
to return, and awoke my other friend, who was comfortably reposing
under the protecting influence of Bacchus. He had felt nothing of
the musquitoes, and very much wished to remain till morning; but Mr.
Brewe was not to be dissuaded, and accordingly ordered his servants and
baggage to get into marching order. I determined, notwithstanding, to
remain alone. Mr. Brewe showed great anxiety for my safety, and very
kindly left the provision-boxes for my use during the next two days,
which was very desirable, for our money is of no value in this country,
cowries being the only currency known.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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