Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833 — John Shaqi
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
lurked in Bokhara, like a bird near its nest that is robbed, in hopes
of relieving the other members of his family. He had failed, and was
now travelling into his own country, to excite the compassion and pity
of those who had known him in his prosperity. It would harrow up a
man’s heart, to listen to all the tales of the woe which is inflicted
upon mankind by these plundering Toorkmuns.
~Well of Balghooee.~
In marching from Karoul, we quitted the high road of the caravans,
which leads to Merve, and proceeded westward into the desert, by a way
that is altogether unfrequented. We had no option in the selection of
such a route, since the officer who commands the Orgunje army sent a
messenger to direct our march upon his camp. We were thus thrown into
the jaws of the lion, but were helpless; and the merchants appeared to
regret it more than ourselves. After the usual halt, we reached the
well of Balghooee twenty-four miles distant, on the morning of the 23d.
It was a small and single well, about four feet in diameter, as deep
as that at Karoul; and the Toorkmuns only discovered it after a zigzag
search of some hours. We soon emptied it (for the water was good), and
had to wait a night till it again filled.
~The desert.~
In this march the desert was overgrown with brushwood, but the tract
was entirely destitute of water; and a few rats, lizards, and beetles,
with here and there a solitary bird, were its only inhabitants. Some
of the sand-hills now attained the height of sixty feet: but at that
elevation they are invariably bare of all vegetation; which, I suppose,
cannot thrive in such an exposed situation. The highest hills were
about a distance of eight miles from the halting-place, and named
“sheer i shootr,” or “the camel’s milk,” from some allusion to that
useful animal. There was nothing peculiar in the colour of the sand,
which was quartzose. There was no turf, grass, or creeping plants;
every shrub grew separately; and the grass, which I before mentioned,
was only to be found in clumps. The heat of the sand rose to 150°: and
that of the atmosphere exceeded 100°, but the wind blew steadily; nor
do I believe it would be possible to traverse this tract in summer,
if it ceased to blow: the steady manner in which it comes from one
direction is remarkable in this inland country. It is true, that in
every direction except the north we have mountains, but they are too
distant to impede the winds. Our caravan advanced at a firm and equal
pace among the sand; nor can I discover that the progress of a camel
is much impeded in the desert. They moved at the rate of two miles
and one eighth in the hour (3740 yards); and I have since found, that
the judicious Volney assigns the distance of 3600 yards as the hourly
journey of a camel in the sands of Egypt and Syria.
~Dangers of the desert.~
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