Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
I have already mentioned that I was on the point of continuing my
journey, and that my guide had left me at Lam-Khaté. On the 10th
of October, one of the sons of Mohammed-Sidy, lakariche, gave me a
slave for a guide; we set off at seven o’clock in the morning, and
advanced a mile to the west along the bank of a large lake, where I
saw plenty of ducks, teal, and coots. The soil in the neighbourhood
of the lake is argillaceous and rich; I observed there some stems
of millet of the preceding year. After having passed this lake,
we directed our course to the S.W. and proceeded fifteen miles on
stony ground covered with dog-grass. I had nothing to hold water, and
suffered from thirst. On the road we met a marabout riding on an ox;
I begged him to give me a little water, and accompanied my request
by a short prayer in Arabic; he gave me some rather grudgingly,
and told me that I should have had none if it had not been for the
prayer. At noon we arrived at the camp of Boubou-Fanfale, situated
on the bank of the Hadjar; he seemed pleased to see me, and gave me
a bit of mutton for dinner. My guide returned and Boubou sent one of
his sons to conduct me to the camp of my marabout. At two o’clock we
set off again, directing our course over a stony soil. At six in the
evening, having travelled about ten miles, we arrived at Ténèque,
the camp of the zenagues belonging to the king; we passed the night
there. My host gave me for supper a bowl of sangleh, which I enjoyed
very much. In the evening, I was visited by all the women of the camp.
On the 11th, at five in the morning, we continued our journey still
in the same direction. One of the marabouts was going the same way,
and we travelled in company. The soil, consisting of yellow sand, was
covered with khakhames. We passed near eight or ten tombs, and as soon
as my fellow-travellers descried them at a distance, they exclaimed:
_Salam aleycoom; la allah ila allahou!_ (Peace be with you; there is
only one God.) We stopped to pray, which gave me time to examine the
tombs. Mounds are raised upon the bodies, and at the head of each is
a flat stone, on which is written the name of the deceased. After a
short prayer, we each threw a small branch of a tree on the tombs;
my companions then went to the grave of a celebrated marabout which
had a hole a foot deep at the head; they took earth from this hole,
and rubbed their foreheads, breasts, and backs with it, and then
invited me to follow their example; from which I inferred that all
passers-by were expected to perform this ceremony.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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