Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
At eleven o’clock, we arrived at the camp of the Dheiolebere tribe,
of which my marabout was the chief; we had then travelled ten miles. We
rested here during the heat of the day, and they gave us water to
refresh ourselves. At two, we continued our journey towards the west,
over a rich black argillaceous soil. We came again to the rivulet,
and at six o’clock we halted at el-Khara Hett-Louhed-lahi. A little
before we reached the place, we were espied by a troop of women,
who were gathered around a drum; two youths, with each a stick, were
beating this drum; and the women kept time, clapping their hands,
singing, and making a thousand contortions without changing their
places. As soon as they perceived me, they left their amusement
and came to torment me; gathering around the bullock on which I
was seated, they pulled me by the legs, pinched me, and screamed
frightfully whenever I moved. In vain the marabout who was with me
attempted to drive them away, and assured them I was a Musulman; they
pursued me, shouting _el-nasrani! el-nasrani!_ (the christian! the
christian!) while the children threw stones at me. A girl struck me
with a stick, and fairly exhausted my patience; I snatched the stick
from her, and gave her a such a stroke on the face, that all the rest
were frightened and ran off. We visited a friend of my guide’s,
where I was well received, and had some couscous given me for supper
which I thought delicious; for it was the first time I had eaten any
since I had been amongst the Moors. I was afraid that I should have
been tormented again in the evening, but the stick had frightened
the curious, and I was left in perfect quiet.
On the 12th of October, at six in the morning, we resumed our route to
the south. The soil, though stony in some places, is good. I remarked
on the road some indigo plants of great beauty; the Moors are not
aware of its properties. We travelled for six miles, and towards
nine in the evening arrived at the camp of my marabout, where I was
received with great joy by the inhabitants.
On the 13th, the youngest son of Mohammed-Sidy-Moctar cut off my hair,
and made me a pair of breeches out of my coussabe, and a coussabe
out of a pagne which I had with me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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