Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
The Moors of this miserable country are incessantly harassed by
the Berbers, from whose habits of rapine they have every thing to
fear, although they pay them a heavy tribute; and not one of them,
whatever rank he may hold at home, dares travel without being thus
accompanied. These roving people, not being themselves cultivators
of the soil, are obliged frequently to go to el-Drah to purchase
barley and dates for food, and not daring to attempt this without
the convoy of the Berbers, they pay them an additional tribute
by way of remuneration. These latter, well armed, are continually
prowling about in the country of el-Harib, to obtain food from the
Moors and even to carry off their cattle.
The inhabitants of this district are so poor that they can purchase
only the cheapest provisions, principally such dates as, having
fallen from the trees before they have become perfectly ripe, are
carefully picked up by the owners, exposed to the sun to dry, and
then put into leathern bags, where they become so extremely hard
that very good teeth are requisite to eat them without pain. Upon
these dates, which they pound in a wooden mortar, and a little cheni,
the Moors of el-Harib subsist during the day; eating sangleh before
evening only in very particular cases.
About eight or nine at night, they usually sup upon a couscous
of barley generally steeped in warm water, in which they have
boiled a handful of herbs gathered in the environ of their camp.
They also breed some sheep, but when they kill one, which is very
rarely done, they dry the meat and preserve it in leathern sacks,
sometimes for six months. They have recourse to this reserve when
they treat strangers, particularly the Berbers, to whom they are
very attentive. As a mark of consideration, they spread before the
tent for their repose a carpet as good as those which we use in
Europe. The master, in honour of his guests, frequently eats with
them from the same bowl, and, instead of offering them pure water,
he adds to it camel’s milk, which in the rainy season is very
abundant. On the arrival of the strangers, the dates and cheni are
immediately set before them as a refreshment till the supper hour.
Though the Moors of el-Harib receive the Berbers thus hospitably,
yet in travelling through their country they are never treated even
with a supper; in their journeys therefore, they are careful to
carry their provision of dates and a little barley-meal, which they
boil in water. The costume of the Berbers differs from that of the
Moors only in a band of coloured stuff, which the former wrap round
their heads in the form of a turban; they also wear ear-rings. They
are all armed and mounted on fine horses, handsomely caparisoned,
and they wear spurs, which are attached to a leather strap firmly
fastened round the instep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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