Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 [Vol. 2 of 2] — John Shaqi
Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 [Vol. 2 of 2]Weld, Isaac
History
Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 [Vol. 2 of 2]
Weld, Isaac
Canada -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; United States -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
The passage of these rapids is so very tedious, that we here quitted the
bateaux, took our guns in hand, and proceeded on foot to “Le Coteau des
Cedres,” the Hill of Cedars, about nine miles higher up the river. In
going thither you soon lose sight of the few straggling houses at the
cascades, and enter the recesses of a remarkably thick wood, whose
solemn gloom, together with the loud roaring of the waters at a
distance, and the wild appearance of every object around you, inspire
the mind with a sort of pleasing horror. As you approach “Le Coteau des
Cedres,” the country assumes a softer aspect; cultivated fields and neat
cottages once more appear in view, and the river, instead of being
agitated by tremendous rapids, is here seen gliding on with an even
current between its lofty banks.
The village of the Hill of Cedars contains about thirty houses, amongst
which we were agreeably surprised to find a remarkably neat and
excellent tavern, kept by an English woman. We remained here until three
in the afternoon, when we again set off on foot, partly for the pleasure
of beholding, from the top of the steep banks, the many noble and
beautiful prospects laid open before us, and partly for the pleasure of
stopping occasionally to chat with the lively French girls, that, during
this delicious season of the year, sat spinning in groups at the doors
of the cottages. About five o’clock the bateaux overtook us; but after
proceeding in them for about two miles, we again landed to escape the
tedious process of ascending fresh rapids. These are called the rapids
“du Coteau du Lac St. François;” they are several miles in length, and
though not the most dangerous, are yet the most tremendous to appearance
of any in the whole river, the white breakers being distinctly visible
at the distance of four miles; some travellers have gone so far as to
represent them as even more terrible to the beholder than the falls of
Niagara, but this is a very exaggerated account. Boats are here carried
down with the stream at the rate of fourteen or fifteen miles an hour,
according to the best information I could procure on the subject, though
the Canadian boatmen and others declare that they are carried down at
the rate of twenty miles in the hour. At some of the rapids, higher up
the river, the current is considerably swifter than at this place.
[Sidenote: THE RAPIDS.]
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