Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 [Vol. 2 of 2]Weld, Isaac
History
Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 [Vol. 2 of 2]
Weld, Isaac
Canada -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; United States -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
To hasten the speed of their horses they have three expressions, rising
above each other in a regular climax. The first, “Marche,” is pronounced
in the usual tone of voice; “Marche-donc,” the second, is pronounced
more hastily and louder; if the horse is dull enough not to comprehend
this, then the “Marche-donc,” accompanied with one of Sterne’s magical
words, comes out, in the third place, in a shrill piercing key, and a
smart lash of the whip follows. From the frequent use made by the
drivers of these words, the calashes have received the nick-name of
“marche-doncs.”
The first post house is nine miles from Quebec, which our drivers, of
their own accord, managed to reach in one hour. No sooner were we in
sight of it, than the postmaster, his wife in her close French cap, and
all the family, came running out to receive us. The foremost driver, a
thin fellow of about six feet high, with a queue bound with eel skins
that reached the whole way down his back, immediately cracked his whip,
and having brought his calash to the door, with a great air he leapt
out, bowed respectfully at a distance to the hostess, then advancing
with his hat off, paid her a few compliments, and kissed both her cheeks
in turn, which she presented to him with no small condescension. Some
minutes are generally spent thus at every post house in mutual
congratulations on meeting, before the people ever think of getting a
fresh carriage ready.
The road between Quebec and Montreal runs, for the most part, close upon
the banks of the River St. Lawrence, through those beautiful little
towns and villages seen to so much advantage from the water; and as the
traveller passes along, he is entertained with prospects, if possible,
superior to those which strike the attention in sailing down the river.
For the first thirty or forty miles in the way from Quebec, the views
are in particular extremely grand. The immense River St. Lawrence, more
like a lake confined between ranges of mountains than a river, appears
at one side rolling under your feet, and as you look down upon it from
the top of the lofty banks, the largest merchant vessels scarcely seem
bigger than fishing boats; on the other side, deep mountains, skirted
with forests, present themselves to the view at a distance, whilst, in
the intermediate space, is seen a rich country, beautifully diversified
with whitened cottages and glittering spires, with groves of trees and
cultivated fields, watered by innumerable little streams: groups of the
peasantry, busied as we passed along in getting in the harvest, which
was not quite over, diffused an air of cheerfulness and gaiety over the
scene, and heightened all its charms.
[Sidenote: FEMALE PEASANTS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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