Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
Mahomet Gibberti married at Arkeeko. For fifteen days afterward, the
husband there is invisible to everybody but the female friends of his
wife, who in that sultry country do every thing they can, by hot and
spiced drinks, to throw the man, stewed in a close room, into a fever.
I do believe that Mahomet Gibberti, in the course of these fifteen
days, was at least two stone lighter. It puts me much in mind of some
of our countrymen sweating themselves for a horse-race with a load
of flannel on. I conceive that Mahomet Gibberti, had it not been for
the spice, would have made a bad figure in the match he was engaged
in. One of these nights of his being sequestered, when, had I not
providentially engaged Achmet, his uncle the Naybe would have cut
our throats. I heard two girls, professors hired for such occasions,
sing alternately verse for verse in reply to each other, in the most
agreeable and melodious manner I ever heard in my life. This gave me
great hopes that, in Abyssinia, I should find music in a state of
perfection little expected in Europe. Upon inquiry into particulars
I was miserably disappointed, by being told these musicians were all
strangers from Azab, the myrrh country, where all the people were
natural musicians, and sung in a better stile than that I had heard;
but that nothing of this kind was known in Abyssinia, a mountainous,
barbarous country, without instrument, and without song; and that it
was the same here in Atbara; a miserable truth, which I afterwards
completely verified. These singers were Cushites, not Shepherds.
I, however, made myself master of two or three of these alternate songs
upon the guitar, the wretched instrument of that country; and was
surprised to find the words in a language equally strange to Masuah
and Abyssinia. I had frequent interviews with these musicians in the
evening; they were perfectly black and woolly-headed. Being slaves,
they spoke both Arabic and Tigrè, but could sing in neither; and, from
every possible inquiry, I found every thing, allied to counterpoint,
was unknown among them. I have sometimes endeavoured to recover
fragments of these songs, which I once perfectly knew from memory only,
but unfortunately I committed none of them to writing. Sorrow, and
various misfortunes, that every day marked my stay in the barbarous
country to which I was then going, and the necessary part I, much
against my will, was for self-preservation forced to take in the ruder
occupations of those times, have, to my very great regret, obliterated
long ago the whole from my memory.
It is a general custom in Masuah for people to burn myrrh and incense
in their houses before they open the doors in the morning; and when
they go out at night, or early in the day, they have always a small
piece of rag highly fumigated with these two perfumes, which they stuff
into each nostril to keep them from the unwholesome air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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