Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beardAnonymous
History
Trichocosmos: Notes historical, æsthetical, ethnological, physiological, anecdotal and tonsorial, on the hair & beard
Anonymous
Barbering; Beards; Hair; Hairdressing; Wigs
The Normans, at the time of the Conquest, not only shaved the upper lip
and the entire face, but also cropped close or shaved the back of the
head. Harold’s spies, unacquainted with so singular a custom, on the
approach of the Conqueror’s forces, reported that his army was composed
of priests, and not soldiers. Holinshed states that after the Conquest
the English were ordered to shave their beards and round their hair,
after the Norman fashion. When William returned to Normandy, he took
with him some young Englishmen, as hostages: the French greatly admired
their long beautiful curls. The Normans and Flemings, who accompanied
the Conqueror, were too solicitous about their good looks to be long
restricted to the stunted growth prescribed by military rule. All
classes soon indulged in the forbidden luxury, and, as is usually the
case, the reaction was extreme; so much so, that William of Malmesbury
who makes complaint of the cropping of his countrymen in the previous
reign, reprobates the immoderate length of the hair in the time of
Rufus.
The prevailing sin of unshorn locks and curled moustaches had long been
a grievous scandal in the eyes of the clergy. Councils were held at
Limoges, in 1031; by Gregory VII. in 1073, and again at Rouen in 1095;
on this much discussed grievance. Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury
refused his benediction to those who would not cut their hair. And
Serlo, bishop of Seez, when Henry was in Normandy, seems to have taken
the matter literally into his own hands. Observing that the king and
courtiers were moved by his zeal and eloquence, when preaching against
this extravagant profusion of hair, he pulled out a pair of scissors,
and docked the whole congregation, king and all, on the spot. A royal
edict to the like effect was immediately issued. St. Wulstan, bishop of
Worcester, took a somewhat singular method of enforcing his commands.
When anyone knelt to receive his blessing, he would snip off a lock of
their hair, throwing it in their face, and bidding them to cut off the
rest, or perish in perdition.
The effigies of Henry and his Queen Matilda, at Rochester Cathedral,
show the style of hair worn in those days. The king is represented with
the beard trimmed round, and hair flowing in carefully-twisted ringlets
upon his shoulders and down his back. The queen’s hair descends in two
long plaits to the hips, and terminates in small curls. These plaits
were sometimes encased in silk, and bound round with ribbon.
Whatever changes were effected by the zeal of the clergy, it is certain
that the fops in Stephen’s reign had not conformed to their teachings.
Historians describe their effeminate ringlets: and when these were not
sufficiently ample, recourse was had to false hair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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