There came on board at Naples a number of gentlemen in whom we felt
considerable interest, and who proved agreeable companions. They were
silk merchants from various cities of Italy, engaged in the endeavour to
restore the Italian silk-trade, which has in recent years been almost
ruined by disease among the worms. They make an annual voyage to Japan,
and bring back with them enormous quantities of the best silkworms’
eggs. These are stowed in a special compartment of the vessel, iced to
keep them cool, and a heavy freight is paid for the accommodation. Our
new passengers were a tall, manly body of men; many of them had the
unmistakeable Roman face and features; and when one saw them at dinner,
enlivening the tedium of the seven courses with the hearty laugh and
witty repartee, one felt that classical life was coming home very
freshly, and could realise it more distinctly than before.
We were charmed with the Suez Canal. It is a great work, simply but
effectually done. We saw the powerful dredgers busily engaged in
maintaining its depth; we passed steadily through it without a hitch; we
saw with interest the little stations; the white town of Ismailia, with
its water-works and railway station; the two bitter lakes, no longer
dry; the cuttings through low hills of limestone and gypsum; and at
length entered the green Bay of Suez at its southern end. Anchored
between the “Fountains of Moses” on the eastern shore, and the “Rock of
Deliverance” on the west, we witnessed one of the most golden sunsets I
have seen in the Eastern world. This easy passage from the Red Sea to
the Mediterranean has revolutionised the carrying trade of the East. The
great fleets of sailing ships which in former years rounded the Cape
with the silk and tea of China, with the indigo and jute, the sugar and
tea, the silk and cotton of India, the _Ariel_ and _Taeping_, the
_Hotspur_, and _Renown_, and _City of Calcutta_, and their companions,
of which the mercantile world was justly proud, have passed away, and
have given place to lines of steamers which swarm in every port of the
Indian seas, and which at small expense bring home their precious
cargoes without hindrance through the simple green lane of the Suez
Canal. There is, however, one drawback to the satisfaction with which
the new arrangement is carried out,—the fee paid for the passage. The
“little bill” presented to the _Amazone_ for its seventeen hours’ work
amounted to £1400!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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