The vessels which regularly run between Port Louis and Tamatave are
termed “bullockers.” They bring from Madagascar the rice, hides, and
india-rubber, which are usual articles of trade: but their principal
freight is live bullocks, intended to supply the meat market of
Mauritius, and the quarter of a million coolies who purchase their
supplies therein. I had often heard of these bullockers, and read about
them. I remembered the story of the amiable captain, who having
quarrelled with Mr. Ellis’s orchids, directed his boy to pour over them
a kettle of boiling water. My colleague and myself visited two of these
vessels, in the harbour of Port Louis, and found them an interesting
study. The absence of all paint, the rusty iron work, the damaged
rigging, the rotten steering-gear, and the filthy cabins, fully
justified the warnings of our friends against accepting a passage in
them, even if accompanied by a handsome remuneration. One of them had
its living freight on board, and we were witnesses to the astonishment
and indignation with which the dumb creatures, after their long
confinement, found themselves suddenly dropped into the water and
compelled to swim ashore for their lives. To style a ship like this “a
horrid hole,” is not really disrespectful. To say that as an abode for
human beings, it is a disgrace to civilisation, is mild and moderate
language compared with the facts. The bullock trade must be the Botany
Bay or the Cayenne of the shipping world; and on the vessels employed in
it no Committee of inquiry need sit long.
In a bullocker we must go: but happily the vessel about to sail was one
of the safest of her class; and the owners and officers endeavoured to
make us comfortable. Had they had time to paint the saloon and cabin,
they would probably have been of some definite colour: at all events the
boy assured us that he had washed them out; but over their condition in
general, and that of the cabin-table in particular, let us draw the veil
of silence. We managed well, as Englishmen can do anywhere. Captain
Gilman was kindness itself; a smart sailor, a genial companion, and a
most attentive nurse to the sick, he did his best to render our passage
safe and pleasant. With a fair wind and moderate sea, the little barque
sped on her way over the six hundred miles of water; and sixty-nine
hours after leaving Port Louis, on Thursday, August 14th, we anchored
behind the reef at Tamatave.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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