After a three days’ delay in Aden, on board the _Dupleix_, the
corresponding steamer to which we had been transferred, we again started
for a fortnight’s voyage down the Indian Ocean to Mauritius. The Gulf of
Aden we found hot but quiet; but the moment we passed the great
limestone promontory of Cape Gardafui, though the thermometer fell
fifteen degrees, we ran into a rough sea, which completely upset us all.
For three days Mr. Pillans and I scarcely appeared on deck. To lie still
and listless was most pleasant; we ate nothing, drank nothing, except
water, and did nothing. But at the end of three days we grew accustomed
to the motion, and life went on quietly as before. Mrs. Pillans suffered
far more than we. The season of the south-west monsoon is well known in
all the eastern seas, for its strong winds and wild waters. It is
singular that the wind blows hardest near the African coast; no vessels
going down that coast can face it with advantage; the steamers therefore
shape their course far out in the direction of Ceylon, and bend round
toward the south, when the wind and sea fall lighter. In this way we
crossed the line, skirted the Calvados reef, made acquaintance with the
south-east trade wind, and in due time anchored at Port St. Denis, in
the Island of Bourbon. Here we received a hundred and forty-five
passengers, who were going over to Mauritius to see the races. We had a
very rough night, and they were all violently ill; the appearance of
many next morning was pitiable, and looking at the results, I doubt not
many would ask whether the “game” was worth the “candle” paid for it.
The next morning we reached Port Louis.
I cannot dwell on our little visit to the Mauritius; the island is well
known and has only recently been well described. We found many friends
and received the kindest hospitality and help at their hands. We
travelled along the railways; saw the charming bits of scenery with
which this volcanic island abounds; and visited the Pamplemousse
Gardens, in which I found many old Indian friends. The fan palm and the
betel-nut, the talipot of Ceylon, the poinsettia, the Ponciana regia,
and the Bouganvillier creeper were represented by fine specimens. More
pleasant still was it to visit the market, full of the Indian grains and
vegetables; to handle once more dàl and rice; to see the huge melons,
the cucumbers and tomatoes, of which the people of India are so fond;
and to talk Hindustani to the coolies and traders, while asking of their
welfare and the whereabouts of their Indian homes. Most pleasant of all
was it, to meet on the Sunday a little congregation of Indians at the
station of the Church Missionary Society, and preach to them in Bengali,
the tongue with which I had been most familiar during the years of my
Indian life. The week passed rapidly away; and as one of the regular
“liners” was about to cross to Madagascar, we prepared to take our
passage in her.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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