Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
—“New England’s Crisis,” BENJAMIN TOMPSON, 1675.
_“I am neither Niggard nor Cynic to the due Bravery of the true
Gentry.”_
—“The simple Cobbler of Agawam,” J. WARD, 1713.
_“Never was it happier in England than when an Englishman was known
abroad by his own cloth; and contented himself at home with his fine
russet carsey hosen, and a warm slop; his coat, gown, and cloak of
brown, blue or putre, with some pretty furnishings of velvet or fur,
and a doublet of sad-tawnie or black velvet or comely silk, without
such cuts and gawrish colours as are worn in these dayes by those who
think themselves the gayest men when they have most diversities of
jagges and changes of colours.”_
—“Chronicles,” HOLINSHED, 1578.
CHAPTER I
APPAREL OF THE PURITAN AND PILGRIM FATHERS
I
t is difficult to discover the reasons, to trace the influences which
have resulted in the production in the modern mind of that composite
figure which serves to the everyday reader, the heedless observer, as
the counterfeit presentment of the New England colonist,—the Boston
Puritan or Plymouth Pilgrim. We have a very respectable notion, a
fairly true picture, of Dutch patroon, Pennsylvania Quaker, and
Virginia planter; but we see a very unreal New Englishman. This “gray
old Gospeller, sour as midwinter,” appears with goodwife or dame in the
hastily drawn illustrations of our daily press; we find him outlined
with greater care but equal inaccuracy in our choicer periodical
literature; we have him depicted by artists in our handsome books and
on the walls of our art museums; he is cut in stone and cast in bronze
for our halls and parks; he is dressed by actors for a part in some
historical play; he is furbished up with conglomerate and makeshift
garments by enthusiastic and confident young folk in tableau and
fancy-dress party; he is richly and amply attired by portly,
self-satisfied members of our patriotic-hereditary societies; we
constantly see these figures garbed in semblance in some details, yet
never in verisimilitude as a whole figure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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