Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
We are wont to think of our Puritan forbears, indeed we are determined
to think of them, garbed in sombre sad-colored garments, in a life
devoid of color, warmth, or fragrance. But sad color was not dismal and
dull save in name; it was brown in tone, and brown is warm, and being a
primitive color is, like many primitive things, cheerful. Old England
was garbed in hearty honest russet, even in the days of our
colonization. Read the list of the garments of any master of the manor,
of the honest English yeoman, of our own sturdy English emigrants from
manor and farm in Suffolk and Essex. What did they wear across seas?
What did they wear in the New World? What they wore in England, namely:
Doublets of leathers, all brown in tint; breeches of various tanned
skins and hides; untanned leather shoes; jerkins of “filomot” or
“phillymort” (feuille morte), dead-leaf color; buff-coats of fine buff
leather; tawny camlet cloaks and jackets of “du Boys” (which was wood
color); russet hose; horseman’s coats of tan-colored linsey-woolsey or
homespun ginger-lyne or brown perpetuana; fawn-colored mandillions and
deer-colored cassocks—all brown; and sometimes a hat of natural beaver.
Here is a “falding” doublet of “treen color”—and what is treen but
wooden and wood color is brown again.
It was a fitting dress for their conditions of life. The colonists
lived close to nature—they touched the beginnings of things; and we are
close to nature when all dress in russet. The homely “butternuts” of
the Kentucky mountains express this; so too does khaki, a good, simple
native dye and stuff; so eagerly welcomed, so closely cherished, as all
good and primitive things should be.
[Illustration: Governor John Endicott]
So when I think of my sturdy Puritan forbears in the summer planting of
Salem and of Boston, I see them in “honest russet kersey”; gay too with
the bright stamell-red of their waistcoats and the grain-red linings of
mandillions; scarlet-capped are they, and enlivened with many a great
scarlet-hooded cloak. I see them in this attire on shipboard, where
they were greeted off Salem with “a smell from the shore like the smell
of a garden”; I see them landing in happy June amid “sweet wild
strawberries and fair single roses.” I see them walking along the
little lanes and half-streets in which for many years bayberry and
sweet-fern lingered in dusty fragrant clumps by the roadside.
“Scented with Cædar and Sweet Fern
From Heats reflection dry,”
wrote of that welcoming shore one colonist who came on the first ship,
and noted in rhyme what he found and saw and felt and smelt. And I see
the forefathers standing under the hot little cedar trees of the
Massachusetts coast, not sober in sad color, but cheery in russet and
scarlet; and sweetbrier and strawberries, bayberry and cedar, smell
sweetly and glow genially in that summer sunlight which shines down on
us through all these two centuries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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