Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Martin Frobisher, the hero of the Armada, wears a jerkin fastened down
the front with buttons and aigletted points. (See here.) I suppose,
when the fronts of the jerkin were thoroughly joined, each button had a
point twisted or tied around it. Frobisher’s lawn ruff is a modest and
becoming one. This portrait in the original is full length. The
remainder of the costume is very plain; it has no garters, no
knee-points, no ribbons, no shoe-roses. The foot-covering is Turkish
slippers precisely like the Oriental slippers which are imported
to-day.
The Earl of Morton (here) wore a jerkin of buff leather curiously
pinked and slashed. Fulke Greville’s doublet (here) has a singular puff
around the waist, like a farthingale.Here is shown a doublet of the
commonest form; this is worn by Edward Courtenay, Earl of Devonshire.
The portrait is painted by Sir Antonio More—the portrait of one artist
by another, and a very fine one, too.
Another garment, which is constantly named in lists of clothing, was
the cassock. Steevens says a cassock “signifies a horseman’s loose
coat, and is used in that sense by the writers of the age of
Shakespere.” It was apparently a garment much like a doublet or jerkin,
and the names were used interchangeably. I think the cassock was longer
than the doublet, and without “laps.” The straight, long coats shown on
the gentlemen in the picture here were cassocks. The name finally
became applied only to the coat or gown of the clergy. In the will of
Robert Saltonstall, made in 1650, he names a “Plush Cassock,” but cloth
cassocks were the commonest wear.
There were other names for the doublet which are now difficult to place
precisely. In the reign of Henry VIII a law was passed as to men’s wear
of velvet in their sleeveless cotes, jackets, and jupes. This word jupe
and its ally jupon were more frequently heard in women’s lists; but
jump, a derivative, was man’s wear. Randle Holme said: “A jump
extendeth to the thighs; is open and buttoned before, and may have a
slit half way behind.” It might be with or without sleeves—all this
being likewise true of the doublet. From this jump descended the modern
jumper and the eighteenth century jumps—what Dr. Johnson defined in one
of his delightsome struggles with the names of women’s attire, “Jumps:
a kind of loose or limber stays worn by sickly ladies.”
Colonel William Legge. Colonel William Legge.
Coats were not furnished to the Massachusetts or Plymouth planters, but
those of Piscataquay in New Hampshire had “lined coats,” which were
simply doublets like all the rest.
In 1633 we find that Governor Winthrop had several dozen scarlet coats
sent from England to “the Bay.” The consigner wrote, “I could not find
any Bridgwater cloth but Red; so all the coats sent are red lined with
blew, and lace suitable; which red is the choise color of all.” These
coats of double thickness were evidently doublets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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