The word “coat” in the earliest lists must often refer to a waistcoat. I infer this from the small cost of the garments, the small amount of stuff it took to make them, and because they were worn with “Vper coats”—upper coats. Raccoon-skin and deerskin coats were many; these were likewise waistcoats, and the first lace coats were also waistcoats. Robert Keayne of Boston had costly lace coats in 1640, which he wore with doublets—these likewise were waistcoats. As years go on, the use of the word becomes constant. There were “moose-coats” of mooseskin. Josselyn says mooseskin made excellent coats for martial men. Then come papous coats and pappous coats. These I inferred—since they were used in Indian trading—were for pappooses’ wear, pappoose being the Indian word for child. But I had a painful shock in finding in the _Traders’ Table of Values_ that “3 Pappous Skins equal 1 Beaver”—so I must not believe that pappoose here means Indian baby. Match-coats were originally of skins dressed with the fur on, shaped in a coat like the hunting-shirt. The “Duffield Match-coat” was made of duffels, a woollen stuff, in the same shape. Duffels was called match-cloth. The word “coat” here is not really an English word; it is matchigode, the Chippewa Indian name for this garment. [Illustration: Sir Thomas Orchard, Knight] We have in old-time letters and accounts occasional proof that the coat of the Puritan fathers was not at all like the shapely coat of our day. We have also many words to prove that the coat was a doublet which, as old Stubbes said, could be “pleated, or crested behind and curiously gathered.” The tailor of the Winthrop family was one John Smith; he made garments for them all, father, mother, children, and children’s wives, and husband’s sisters, nieces, cousins, and aunts. He was a good Puritan, and seems to have been much esteemed by Winthrop. One letter accompanying a coat runs: “Good Mr. Winthrop, I have, by Mr. Downing’s direction sent you a coat, a sad foulding colour without lace. For the fittness I am a little vncerteyne, but if it be too bigg or too little it is esie to amend, vnder the arme to take in or let out the lyning; the outside may be let out in the gathering or taken in also without any prejudice.” This instruction would appear to prove not only that the coat was a doublet, “curiously gathered” but that the “fittness” was more than “uncerteyne” of the coats of the Fathers. Since even such wildly broad directions could not “prejudice” the coat, we may assume that Governor Winthrop was more easily suited as to the cut of his apparel, than would have been Sir Walter Raleigh or Sir Philip Sidney.