Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Though Puritan influence on dress simplified much of the flippery and
finery of the days of Elizabeth and James, and the refining elegance of
Van Dyck gave additional simplicity as well as beauty to women’s
attire, which it retained for many years, still there lingered
throughout the seventeenth century, ready to spring into fresh life at
a breath of encouragement, many grotesqueries of fashion in men’s dress
which, in the picturesque sneer of the day, were deemed meet only for
“a changeable-silk-gallant.” At the restoration of the crown, courtiers
seemed to love to flaunt frivolity in the faces of the Puritans.
One of these trumperies came through the excessive use of ribbons, a
use which gave much charm to women’s dress, but which ever gave to
men’s garments a finicky look. Beribboned doublets came in the
butterfly period, between worm and chrysalis, between doublet and coat;
beribboned breeches were eagerly adopted.
Shown here is the copy of an old print, which shows the dress of an
estimable and sensible gentleman, Sir Thomas Orchard, with ribbon-edged
garments and much galloon or laces. It is far too much trimmed to be
rich or elegant. See also _The English Antick_ on this page, from a
rare broadside. His tall hat is beribboned and befeathered; his face is
patched, ribbons knot his love-locks, his breeches are edged with
agletted ribbons, and “on either side are two great bunches of ribbons
of several colors.” Similar knots are at wrists and belt. His boots are
fringed with lace, and so wide that he “straddled as he went along
singing.”
The English Antick. The English Antick.
Ribboned sleeves like those of Colonel Legge, here, were a pretty
fashion, but more suited to women’s wear than to men’s.
George Fox, the founder of Quakerism, tells us what he thought of such
attire. He wrote satirically:—
“If one have store of ribands hanging about his waist or his knees and
in his hat; of divers colours red, white black or yellow, O! then he is
a brave man. He hath ribands on his back, belly and knees, and his hair
powdered, this is the array of the world. Are not these that have got
ribands hanging about their arms, hands, back, waist, knees, hats, like
fiddlers’ boys? And further if one get a pair of breeches like a coat
and hang them about with points, and tied up almost to the middle, a
pair of double cuffs on his hands, and a feather in his cap, here is a
gentleman!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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