Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
A very interesting study is that of color in wearing apparel. Beginning
with the few crude dyes of mediaeval days, we could trace the history
of dyeing, and the use and invention of new colors and tints. The names
of these colors are delightful; the older quaint titles seem
wonderfully significant. We read of such tints as billymot, phillymurt,
or philomot (feuille-mort), murry, blemmish, gridolin (gris-de-lin or
flax blossom), puce colour, foulding colour, Kendal green, Lincoln
green, treen-colour, watchet blue, barry, milly, tuly, stammel red,
Bristol red, zaffer-blue, which was either sapphire-blue or
zaffre-blue, and a score of fanciful names whose signification and
identification were lost with the death of the century. Historical
events were commemorated in new hues; we have the political,
diplomatic, and military history of various countries hinted to us.
Great discoveries and inventions give names to colors. The materials
and methods of dyeing, especially domestic dyes, are most interesting.
An allied topic is the significance of colors, the limitation of their
use. For instance, the study of blue would fill a chapter. The dress of
’prentices and serving-men in Elizabeth’s day was always blue blue
cloaks in winter, blue coats in summer. Blue was not precisely a
livery; it was their color, the badge of their condition in life, as
black is now a parson’s. Different articles of dress clung to certain
colors. Green stockings had their time and season of clothing the
sturdy legs of English dames as inevitably as green stalks filled the
fields. Think of the years of domination of the green apron; of the
black hood—it is curious indeed.
In such exhaustive books upon special topics as the _History of the
Twelve Great Livery Companies of London_ we find wonderfully
interesting and significant proof of the power of color; also in many
the restrictive sumptuary laws of the Crown.
It would appear that this long, scarlet cloak never was out of wear for
men and women until the nineteenth century. It was, at times, not the
height of the fashion, but still was worn. Various ancient citizens of
Boston, of Salem, are recalled through letter or traditions as clinging
long to this comfortable cloak. Samuel Adams carried a scarlet cloak
with him when he went to Washington.
I shall tell in a later chapter of my own great-great-grandmother’s
wear of a scarlet cloak until the opening years of the nineteenth
century. During and after the Revolution these cloaks remained in high
favor for women. French officers, writing home to France glowing
accounts of the fair Americans, noted often that the ladies wore
scarlet cloaks, and Madame Riedesel asserted that all gentlewomen in
Canada never left the house save in a scarlet silk or cloth cloak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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