Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
He published in 1586 a book called _An Anatomie of Abuses_, in which he
described in full the excesses of England in his day. He wrote with
spirited, vivid pen, and in plain speech, leaving nothing unspoken lest
it offend, and he used strong, racy English words and sentences. In his
later editions he even took pains to change certain “strange, inkhorn
terms” or complicate words of his first writing into simpler ones. Thus
he changed _preter time_ to _former ages; auditory_ to _hearers;
prostrated_ to _humbled; consummate_ to _ended_; and of course this was
to the book’s advantage. Unusual words still linger, however, but we
must believe they are not intentionally “outlandish” as was the term of
the day for such words.
The attitude of Stubbes toward dress and dress wearers is of great
interest, for he was certainly one of the most severe, most determined,
most conscientious of Puritans; yet his hatred of “corruptions desiring
reformation” did not lead him to a hatred of dress in itself. He is
careful to state in detail in the body of his book and in his preface
that his attack is not upon the dress of people of wealth and station;
that he approves of rich dress for the rich. His hatred is for the
pretentious dress of the many men of low birth or of mean estate who
lavish their all in dress ill suited to their station; and also his
reproof is for swindling in dress materials and dress-making; against
false weights and measures, adulterations and profits; in short,
against abuses, not uses.
Governor Simon Bradstreet. Governor Simon Bradstreet.
His words run thus explicitly:—
“Whereas I have spoken of the excesse in apparell, and of the Abuse of
the same as wel in Men as in Women, generally I would not be so
understood as though my speaches extended to any either noble honorable
or worshipful; for I am farre from once thinking that any kind of
sumptuous or gorgeous Attire is not to be worn of them; as I suppose
them rather Ornaments in them than otherwise. And therefore when I
speak of excesse of Apparel my meaning is of the inferiour sorte only
who for the most parte do farre surpasse either noble honorable or
worshipful, ruffling in Silks Velvets, Satens, Damaske, Taffeties, Gold
Silver and what not; these bee the Abuses I speak of, these bee the
Evills that I lament, and these bee the Persons my wordes doe concern.”
There was ample room for reformation from Stubbes’s point of view.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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