Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Lowell has written of what he terms verbal magic; the power of certain
words and sentences, apparently simple, and without any recognizable
quality, which will, nevertheless, fix themselves in our memory, or
will picture a scene to us which we can never forget. This description
of Cromwell has this magic. There is no apparent reason why these
plain, commonplace words should fix in my mind this simple, rough-hewn
form; yet I never can think of Cromwell otherwise than in this attire,
and whatever portrait I see of him, I instinctively look for the spot
of blood on his band. I know of his rich dress after he was in power;
of that splendid purple velvet suit in which he lay majestic in death;
but they never seem to me to be Cromwell—he wears forever an ill-cut,
clumsy cloth suit, a close sword, and rumpled linen.
The noble portraits of Cromwell by the miniaturist, Samuel Cooper,
especially the one which is at Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge, are
held to be the truest likenesses. They show a narrow band, but the hair
curls softly on the shoulders. The wonderful portrait of the Puritan
General Ireton, in the National Portrait Gallery, has beautiful, long
hair, and a velvet suit much slashed, and with many loops and buttons
at the slashes. He wears mustache and imperial. We expect we may find
that friend of Puritanism, Lucius Carey, Lord Falkland, in rich dress;
and we find him in the richest of dress; namely, a doublet made, as to
its body and large full sleeves, wholly of bands an inch or two wide of
embroidery and gold lace, opening like long slashes from throat to
waist, and from arm-scye to wrist over fine white lawn, and with extra
slashes at various spots, with the full white lawn of his “habit-shirt”
pulled out in pretty puffs. His hair is long and curling. General
Waller of Cromwell’s army, here shown, is the very figure of a
Cavalier, as handsome a face, with as flowing hair and careful
mustache, as the Duke of Buckingham, or Mr. Endymion Porter,—that
courtier of courtiers,—gentleman of the bed-chamber to Charles I.
Cornet Joyce, the sturdy personal custodian of the king in captivity,
came the closest to being a Roundhead; but even his hair covers his ear
and hangs over his collar—it would be deemed over-long to-day.
Sir William Waller. Sir William Waller.
Here is Lord Fairfax in plain buff coat slightly laced and slashed with
white satin. Fanshawe dressed—so his wife tells us—in “phillamot
brocade with 9 Laces every one as broad as my hand, a little gold and
silver lace between and both of curious workmanship.” And his suit was
gay with scarlet knots of ribbon; and his legs were cased in white silk
hose over scarlet ones; and he wore black shoes with scarlet shoe
strings and scarlet roses and garters; and his gloves were trimmed with
scarlet ribbon—a fine “gaybeseen”—to use Chaucer’s words.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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