Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
At first the English Puritan reformers made marked alterations in
dress; and there were also distinct changes in the soldiers of
Cromwell’s army, but in neither case did rigid reforms prove permanent,
nor were they ever as great or as sweeping as the changes which came to
the Cavalier dress. Many of the extremes preached in Elizabeth’s day
had disappeared before New England was settled; they had been abandoned
as unwise or unnecessary; others had been adopted by Cavaliers, so that
equalized all differences. I find it difficult to pick out with
accuracy Puritan or Cavalier in any picture of a large gathering. Let
us glance at the Puritan Roundhead, at Cromwell himself. His picture is
given here, cut from a famous print of his day, which represents
Cromwell dissolving the Long Parliament. He and his three friends, all
Puritan leaders, are dressed in clothes as distinctly Cavalier as the
attire of the king himself. The graceful hats with sweeping ostrich
feathers are precisely like the Cavalier hats still preserved in
England; like one in the South Kensington Museum. Cromwell’s wide boots
and his short cape all have a Cavalier aspect.
Cromwell dissolving Parliament. Be gone you rogues/You have Sate long
enough. Cromwell dissolving Parliament.
While Cromwell was steadily working for power, the fashion of plain
attire was being more talked about than at any other time; so he
appeared in studiously simple dress—the plainest apparel, indeed, of
any man prominent in affairs in English history. This is a description
of his appearance at a time before his name was in all Englishmen’s
mouths. It was written by Sir Philip Warwick:—
“The first time I ever took notice of him (Cromwell) was in the
beginning of Parliament, November, 1640. I came into the house one
morning, well-clad, and perceived a gentleman speaking whom I knew not,
very ordinary apparelled, for it was a plain cloth suit which seemed to
have been made by an ill country tailor. His linen was plain and not
very clean, and I remember a speck or two of blood upon his band which
was not much larger than his collar; his hat was without a hat-band;
his stature was of good size; his sword stuck close to his side.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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