Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Powhatan’s “Habit” still exists. It is in England, in the Tradescant
Collection which formed the nucleus of the Ashmolean Collection. It was
probably presented by Captain John Smith himself. It is made of two
deerskins ornamented with “roanoke” shell-work, about seven feet long
by five feet wide. Roanoke is akin to wampum, but this is made of West
Indian shells. The figures are circles, a crude human figure and two
mythical composite animals. He also wore fine mantles of raccoon skins.
A conjurer’s dress was simply a girdle with a single deerskin, while a
great blackbird with outstretched wings was fastened to one ear—a
striking ornament. I am always delighted to read such proof as this of
a fact that I have ever known, namely, that the American Indian is the
most accomplished, the most telling _poseur_ the world has ever known.
The ear of the Indian man and woman was pierced along the entire outer
edge and filled with long drops, a fringe of coral, gold, and pearl.
The wives of Powhatan wore triple strings of great pearls close around
their throats, and a long string over one shoulder, while their mantles
were draped to show their full handsome neck and arms. Altogether, with
their carefully dressed hair, they would have made in full dress a fine
show in a modern opera-box, and, indeed, the Indian squaws did cause
vast exhibition of curiosity and delight when they visited London and
were taken sight-seeing and sight-seen.
As early as 1629 an Indian chief with his wife and son came from Nova
Scotia to England. Lord Poulet paid them much attention in
Somersetshire, and Lady Poulet took Lady Squaw up to London and gave
her a necklace and a diamond, which I suppose she wore with her blue
and white beads.
Be the story of the saving of John Smith by Pocahontas a myth or the
truth, it forever lives a beautiful and tender reality in the hearts of
American children. Pocahontas was not the only Indian squaw who played
a kindly part in the first colonization of this country. There were
many, though their deeds and names are forgotten; and there was one
Indian woman whose influence was much greater and more prolonged than
was that of Pocahontas, and was haloed with many years of exciting
adventure as well as romance. Let me recount a few details of her life,
that you may wonder with me that the only trace of Indian life marked
indelibly on England was found on the swinging signs of inns known by
the name of “The Bell Savage,” “La Belle Sauvage,” and even “The Savage
and Bell.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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