Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
Arthur Abbott was the agent in Boston through whom this London finery
and flummery was delivered to Madam Symonds in safety; and it is an
amusing side-light upon social life in the colony to know that in 1675
Abbott’s wife was “presented before the court” for wearing a silk hood
above her station, and her husband paid the fine. Knowing womankind,
and knowing the skill and cunning in needlework of women of that day, I
cannot resist building up a little imaginative story around this
“presentment” and fine. I believe that the pretty young woman could not
put aside the fascination of all the beautiful London hoods consigned
to her husband for the old lady at Ipswich; I suspect she tried all the
finery on, and that she copied one hood for herself so successfully and
with such telling effect that its air of high fashion at once caught
the eye and met with the reproof of the severe Boston magistrates. She
was the last woman, I believe, to be fined under the colonial sumptuary
laws of Massachusetts.
The colors of Madam Symonds’s garments were seldom given, but I doubt
that they were “sad-coloured” or “grave of colour” as we find Governor
Winthrop’s orders for his wife. One lustring hood was brown; and
frequently green ribbons were sent; also many yards of scarlet and pink
gauze, which seem the very essence of juvenility. Her son writes a list
of gifts to her and the members of her family from his own people:—
“A light violet-colored Petti-Coat is my wife’s token to you. The
Petti-Coat was bought for my wife’s mother and scarcely worn. This my
wife humbly presents to you, requesting your acceptance of it, for your
own wearing, as being Grave and suitable for a Person of Quality.”
Even a half-worn petticoat was a considerable gift; for petticoats were
both costly and of infinite needlework. Even the wealthiest folk
esteemed a gift of partly worn clothing, when materials were so rich.
Letters of deep gratitude were sent in thanks.
The variety of stuffs used in them was great. Some of these are wholly
obsolete; even the meaning of their names is lost. In an inventory of
1644, of a citizen of Plymouth there was, for instance, “a petticoate
of phillip &; cheny” worth £;1. Much of the value of these petticoats
was in the handwork bestowed upon them; they were both embroidered and
elaborately quilted. About 1730, in the Van Cortlandt family, a woman
was paid at one time £;2 5s. for quilting, a large amount for that day.
Often we find items of fifteen or twenty shillings for quilting a
petticoat.
Embroidered Petticoat Band. Embroidered Petticoat Band.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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