Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)Earle, Alice Morse
History
Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)
Earle, Alice Morse
Clothing and dress -- United States -- History
The handsomest petticoats were of quilted silk or satin. No pattern was
so elaborate, no amount of work so large, that it could dismay the
heart or tire the fingers of an eighteenth-century needlewoman. One
yellow satin petticoat has a lining of stout linen. These are quilted
together in an exquisite irregular design of interlacing ribbons,
slender vines, and long, narrow leaves, all stuffed with white cord.
Though the general effect of this pattern is very regular, an
examination shows it is not a set design, but must have been drawn as
well as worked by the maker. Another petticoat has a curious design
made with two shades of blue silk cord sewed on in a pattern. Another
of infinite work has a design outlined in tiny rolls of satin.
These petticoats had many flat trimmings; laces of silver, gold, or
silk thread were used, galloons and orrice. Tufts of fringed silk were
dotted in clusters and made into fly-fringe. Bridget Neal, writing in
1685 to her sister, says:—
“I am told las is yused on petit-coats. Three fringes is much yused,
but they are not set on the petcot strait, but in waves; it does not
look well, unless all the fringes yused that fashion is the plane
twisted fring not very deep. I hear some has nine fringes sett in this
fashion.”
Anxiety to please his honored mother, and desire that she should be
dressed in the top of the mode, show in every letter of John Hall:—
“I bought your muffs of my Coz. Jno. Rolfe who tells me they are worth
more money than I gave for them. You desired yours Modish yet Long; but
here with us they are now much shorter. These were made a Purpose for
you. As to yr Silk Flowered Manto, I hope it may please you; Tis not
the Mode to lyne you now at all; but if you like to have it soe, any
silke will serve, and may be done at yr pleasure.”
In 1663 Pepys notes (with his customary delight at a new fashion,
mingled with fear that thereby he might be led into more expense) that
ladies at the play put on “vizards which hid the whole face, and had
become a great fashion; and _so_ to the Exchange to buy a Vizard for my
wife.” Soon he added a French mask, which led to some unpleasant
encounters for Mrs. Pepys with dissolute courtiers on the street. The
plays in London were then so bold and so bad that we cannot wonder at
the masks of the play-goers. The masks concealed constant blushes; but
wearers and hearers did not stay away, for neither eyes nor ears were
covered by the mask. Busino tells of a woman at the theatre all in
yellow and scarlet, with two masks and three pairs of gloves, worn one
pair over the other. Suddenly out came disappointing Queen Anne with
her royal command that the plays be refined and reformed, and then
masks were abandoned.
Blue Brocade Gown and Quilted Satin Petticoat. Blue Brocade Gown and
Quilted Satin Petticoat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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