Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
Two Trips to Gorilla Land and the Cataracts of the Congo, Volume 2
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Congo River -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West
I arrived with curiosity at the capital of Angola, the first
Portuguese colony visited by me in West Africa. The site is
pleasing and picturesque, contrasting favourably with all our
English settlements and with the French Gaboon; for the first
time after leaving Teneriffe, I saw something like a city. The
escarpment and the sea-bordering shelf, allowing a double town
like Athenæ or Thebæ, a Cidade Alta and a Cidade Baixa, are
favourites with the Lusitanians from Lisbon to the China seas,
and African São Paulo is reflected in the Brazilian Bahia. So
Greece affected the Acropolis, and Rome everywhere sought to
build a Capitol. The two lines follow the shore from north-east
to south-west, and they form a graceful amphitheatre by bending
westward at the jutting headland, Morro de São Miguel, of old de
São Paulo. Three hundred years of possession have built forts and
batteries, churches and chapels, public buildings and large
private houses,white or yellow, withample green verandahs--each
an ugly cube, but massing well together. The general decline of
trade since 1825, and especially the loss of the lucrative slave
export, leave many large tenements unfinished or uninhabited,
while the aspect is as if a bombardment had lately
026--- taken place. Africa shows herself in heaps of filthy
hovels, wattle and daub and dingy thatch; in "umbrella-trees"
(ficus), acacias and calabashes, palms and cotton-trees, all
wilted, stunted, and dusty as at Cairo. We are in the latitude of
East African Kilwa and of Brazilian Pernambuco; but this is a
lee-land, and the suffering is from drought. Yet, curious to say,
the flora, as will appear, is here richer than in the well-
watered eastern regions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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