Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Besides the Resident and myself there were on board the French judge,
the police commissioner, and a crew of boys from the Loyalty Islands
near New Caledonia. These are excellent sailors and are employed in
Vila as French policemen. They are very strong and lively and great
fighters, and would be perfect material for a police force were they
not such confirmed drunkards. Because of this defect they all had
to be dismissed soon afterwards and sent back to their own country,
as in Vila, instead of arresting drunken natives, they had generally
been drunk themselves and were often fighting in the streets. But
on board ship, where they had no opportunity to get drunk, they were
very willing and always cheerful and ready for sport of any kind.
We did not travel far that first day, but stopped after a few hours'
sail in Port Havannah, north of the Bay of Mele. This port would be one
of the best harbours in the group, as it is almost entirely landlocked;
only, the water is so deep that small craft cannot anchor. Yet it
would be preferable to Port Vila, as the climate is much better, Vila
being one of the hottest, stuffiest and rainiest spots in the group,
and its harbour is becoming too small for the increased traffic of
the last few years. Port Vila only became the capital of the islands
when the English influence grew stronger, while all the land round
Port Havannah belonged to a French company.
We spent the afternoon on shore shooting pigeons. Besides a few ducks,
flying-foxes and wild pigs, pigeons are the only game in the islands;
but this pigeon-shooting is a peculiar sport and requires a special
enthusiasm to afford pleasure for any length of time. The birds are
extremely shy and generally sit on the tops of the highest trees
where a European can hardly discover them. The natives, however,
are very clever in detecting them, but when they try to show you the
pigeon it generally flies off and is lost; and if you shoot it, it is
hard to find, even for a native. The natives themselves are capable
of approaching the birds noiselessly and unseen, because of their
colour, so as to shoot them from a short distance. My pigeon-shooting
usually consisted in waiting for several hours in the forest, with
very unsatisfactory results, so that I soon gave it up.
We were all unsuccessful on this particular day, but it ended most
gaily with a dance at the house of a French planter.
We slept on board, rocked softly by the ship, against which the waves
plashed in cosy whispering. The sky was bright with stars, but below
decks it was dark and stuffy. Now and then a big fish jumped out of the
black sea, otherwise it was quiet, dull and gloomy as a dismal dream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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