Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Next day we rose early and went shooting again. Probably because we
had been given the best wishes of an old French lady the result was as
unsatisfactory as the evening before. We then resumed our journey in
splendid weather, with a stiff breeze, and flying through blue spaces
on the bright waves, we rapidly passed several small islands, sighted
"Monument Rock," a lonely cliff that rises abruptly out of the sea
to a height of 130 m., and arrived late in the afternoon at Maei,
our destination.
CHAPTER II
MAEI, TONGOA, EPI AND MALEKULA
Maei is a small island whose natives have nearly all disappeared, as
is the case on most of its neighbours. There is one small plantation,
with the agent of which the Resident had business. After we had passed
the narrow inlet through the reef, we landed, to find the agent in a
peculiar, half-mad condition. He pretended to suffer from fever, but
it was evident that alcohol had a good deal to do with it, too. The
man made strange faces, could hardly talk and was quite unable to
write; he said the fever had deprived him of the power of using his
fingers. He was asked to dinner on board, and as he could not speak
French nor the Resident English, negotiations were carried on in biche
la mar, a language in which it is impossible to talk about anything
but the simplest matters of everyday life. Things got still worse when
the agent became more and more intoxicated, in spite of the small
quantities of liquor we allowed him. I had to act as interpreter, a
most ungrateful task, as the planter soon began to insult the Resident,
and I had to translate his remarks and the Resident's answers. At last,
funny as the whole affair was in a way, it became very tiresome;
happily, matters came to a sudden close by the planter's falling
under the table. He was then taken ashore by his native wife and the
police-boys, who enjoyed this duty immensely. We smoked a quiet pipe,
looked after the fish-hooks--empty, of course--and slept on deck in
the cool night air. Next morning the planter came aboard somewhat
sobered and more tractable. He brought with him his wife, and their
child whom he wished to adopt. As the native women do not as a rule
stay with their masters very long, the children are registered under
the formula: "Child of N. N., mother unknown," an expression which
sounds somewhat queer to those who do not know the reason for it.
After having finished this business, we weighed anchor and set sail
for Tongoa. This is one of the few islands whose native population
does not decrease. The Presbyterian missionary there gives the entire
credit for this pleasant fact to his exertions, as the natives are
all converted. But as in other completely Christianized districts
the natives die out rapidly, it is doubtful whether Christianity
alone has had this beneficial effect, and we must seek other causes,
though they are hard to find.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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