Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
No one with any taste for nature will fail to feel the solemnity
of the moment when he stands face to face for the first time with
primitive man. As the traveller enters the depths of the virgin
forest for the first time with sacred awe, he feels that he stands
before a still higher revelation of nature when the first dark, naked
man suddenly appears. Silently he has crept through the thicket, has
parted the branches, and confronts us unexpectedly on a narrow path,
shy and silent, while we are struck with surprise. His figure is but
slightly relieved against the green of the bushes; he seems part of
the silent, luxuriant world around him, a being strange to us, a part
of those realms which we are used to imagine as void of feeling and
incapable of thought. But a word breaks the spell, intelligence gleams
in his face, and what, so far, has seemed a strange being, belonging
rather to the lower animals than to human-kind, shows himself a man,
and becomes equal to ourselves. Thus the endless, inhospitable jungle,
without open spaces or streets, without prairies and sun, that dense
tangle of lianas and tree-trunks, shelters men like ourselves. It
seems marvellous to think that in those depths, dull, dark and silent
as the fathomless ocean, men can live, and we can hardly blame former
generations for denying all kinship with these savages and counting
them as animals; especially as the native never seems more primitive
than when he is roaming the forest, naked but for a bark belt, with a
big curly wig and waving plumes, bow and arrow his only weapons. When
alarmed, he hides in the foliage, and once swallowed up in the green
depths which are his home and his protection, neither eye nor ear
can find any trace of him.
But our ideas change when we enter his village home, with its
dancing-grounds with the big drums, the sacred stone tables, idols and
carved tree-trunks, all in a frame of violently coloured bushes--red,
purple, brown and orange. Above us, across a blue sky, a tree with
scarlet flowers blows in the breeze, and long stamens fall slowly down
and cover the ground with a brilliant carpet. Dogs bark, roosters
crow and from a hut a man creeps out--others emerge from the bush
and from half-hidden houses which at first we had not noticed. At
some distance stand the women and children in timid amazement, and
then begins a chattering, or maybe a whispered consultation about
the arrival of the stranger. We are in the midst of human life, in
a busy little town, where the sun pours through the gaps in the dark
forest, and flowers give colour and brightness, and where, after all,
life is not so very much less human than in civilization.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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