Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
Then the forest has lifted its veil, we have entered the sanctuary,
and the alarming sensation of nature's hostility is softened. We white
men like to talk about our mastery over nature, but is it not rather
true that we flee from nature, as its most intense manifestations are
oppressive to us? Is not the savage, living so very close to nature,
more its master, or at least its friend, than we are? We need space
and the sight of sun and sky to feel happy; the night of the forest,
the loneliness of the ocean are terrible to us, whilst to the native
they are his home and his element.
It is evident that under our first strong impression of the native's
life we overlook much--the filth, the sores, the brutality of social
life; but these are really only ripples on an otherwise smooth
existence, defects which are not less present in our civilization,
but are better concealed.
The next day we followed the coast of Malekula southward. There are
immense coral reefs attached to the coast, so that often the line of
breakers is one or two miles away from the shore. These reefs are a
solid mass of cleft coral stones constantly growing seaward. Their
surface is more or less flat, about on a level with the water at low
tide, so that it then lies nearly dry, and one can walk on the reefs,
jumping over the wide crevices in which the sea roars and gurgles
with the rise and fall of the breakers outside. These ever-growing
reefs would surround the whole coast were it not for the fresh water
that oozes out from the land and prevents the coral from growing at
certain points, thus keeping open narrow passages through the reef,
or wider stretches along the coast free from rocks. These basins form
good anchorages for small craft, as the swell of the open sea cannot
cross the reef; only the entrances are often crooked and hard to find.
Our captain brought us safely into a quiet lagoon, where the yacht
lay in deep green water, smooth as glass, while beyond the reef the
breakers dashed a silver line across the blue ocean.
Of course we immediately went shooting on the reef. I did not have
much sport, as I could see nothing worth shooting, but I was much
interested in wading in the warm water to observe the multiform animal
life of the reef. There was the "beche-de-mer," the sea-cucumber,
yellow or purplish-black, a shapeless mass lying in pools; this is
a delicacy highly valued by the Chinese and therefore a frequent
article of exportation. The animals are collected, cut open, dried
and shipped. There was the ugly muraena, which goes splashing and
winding like a snake between boulders, and threatens the intruder
with poisonous looks and snapping jaws. Innumerable bright-coloured
fish shot hither and thither in the flat pools, there were worms,
sea-stars, octopus, crabs. The wealth of animal life on the reef,
where each footstep stirs up a hundred creatures, is incredible,
and ever so many more are hidden in the rocks and crevices.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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