Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
The plants that had taken root in the coral were mostly mangrove
bushes with great forked roots.
CHAPTER III
THE SEGOND CHANNEL--LIFE ON A PLANTATION
When the tide rose, we returned to the yacht and continued our cruise
northward, passed the small islands of Rano, Atchin, Vao and others,
crossed the treacherous Bougainville Strait between Malekula and
Santo, and came to anchor in the Canal du Segond formed by Santo and
Malo. This channel is about eight miles long and three-quarters of
a mile wide at its narrowest point. On its shores, which belong to a
French company, is a colony of about a hundred and fifty Frenchmen. The
Segond Channel would be a good harbour but for very strong currents
caused by the tides, which are unfavourable to small boats; its
location, too, is not very central. The shores are flat, but rise
abruptly at some points to a height of 150 m. There are level lands
at the mouth of the Sarrakatta River and on the tablelands.
The Sarrakatta is one of the sights of the New Hebrides, and a pull up
the narrow stream affords one of the most impressive views to be had
of tropical vegetation. The river cuts straight through the forest,
so that the boat moves between two high walls of leafy green. Silently
glides the stream, silently broods the forest, only the boat swishes
softly, and sometimes a frightened fish splashes up. Every bend we
round shows us new and surprisingly charming views: now we pass a
giant tree, which towers up king-like on its iron-hard trunk far
above the rest of the forest, trunk and limbs covered with a fine
lacework of tender-leaved lianas; now we sweep along a high bank,
under a bower of overhanging branches. The water caresses the tips
of the twigs, and through the leaves the sun pours golden into the
cool darkness. Again we glide into the light, and tangled shrubbery
seams the river bank, from which long green strands of vines trail
down and curl in the water like snakes. Knobby roots rise out of
the ground; they have caught floating trunks, across which the
water pours, lifting and dropping the wet grasses that grow on
the rotten stems. Farther up the bushes are entirely covered with
vines and creepers, whose large, thick leaves form a scaly coat of
mail under which the half-strangled trees seem to fight in vain for
air and freedom. In shallow places stiff bamboos sprout, their long
yellow leaves trembling nervously in an imperceptible breeze; again
we see trees hung with creepers as if wearing torn flags; and once
in a while we catch sight of that most charming of tropical trees,
the tree-fern, with its lovely star-shaped crown, like a beautiful,
dainty work of art in the midst of the uncultivated wilderness. As
if in a dream we row back down stream, and like dream-pictures all
the various green shapes of the forest sweep by and disappear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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