Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific — John Shaqi
Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
I tried to find boys at the south-west corner of Santo, where the
natives frequently descend to the shore. A neighbour of Mr. Ch., a
young Frenchman, was going there in a small cutter to buy wood for
dyeing mats to sell to the natives of Malekula, and he kindly took
me with him. We sailed through the channel one rainy morning, but
the wind died down and we had to anchor, as the current threatened
to take us back. We profited by the stop to pay a visit to a Mr. R.,
who cultivated anarchistic principles, also a plantation which seemed
in perfect condition and in direct opposition to his anti-capitalistic
ideas. Mr. R. was one of those French colonists who, sprung from the
poorest peasant stock, have no ambitions beyond finding a new and
kindlier home. Economical, thrifty, used to hard work in the fields,
Mr. R. had begun very modestly, but had prospered, and was now,
while still a young man, the owner of a plantation that would make
him rich in a few years. This good, solid peasant stock, of which
France possesses so much, makes the best colonists, and as a rule
they succeed far better than those who come to the tropics with the
idea of making a fortune in a few years without working for it. These
fall into the hands of the big Noumea companies, and have the greatest
trouble in getting out of debt. Not only do these firms lend money
at exorbitant interest, but they stipulate that the planter will sell
them all his produce and buy whatever he needs from them, and as they
fix prices as they please, their returns are said to reach 30 per cent.
Besides these two kinds of French settlers, there is a third, which
comes from the penitentiary in Noumea or its neighbourhood. We shall
meet specimens of these in the following pages.
After having duly admired the plantation of Mr. R.--he proved himself
a real peasant, knew every plant by name, and was constantly stopping
to pick a dead leaf or prune a shoot--we continued our journey and
arrived at Tangoa. Tangoa is a small island, on which the Presbyterian
mission has established a central school for the more intelligent
of the natives of the whole group, where they may be trained as
teachers. The exterior of this school looks most comfortable. One
half of the island is cleared and covered with a green lawn, one
part is pasture for good-looking cattle, the other is a park in which
nestle the cottages of the teachers,--the whole looks like an English
country-seat. At some distance is a neatly built, well-kept village
for the native pupils. I presented an introduction to the director. He
seemed to think my endeavours extremely funny, asked if I was looking
for the missing link, etc., so that I took a speedy leave.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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