Two Years with the Natives in the Western PacificSpeiser, Felix
History
Two Years with the Natives in the Western Pacific
Speiser, Felix
Ethnology -- Vanuatu; Vanuatu -- Description and travel
We spent a few lazy days on board the little cutter; the natives would
not come down from their villages, in spite of frequent explosions of
dynamite cartridges, the usual signal of recruiters to announce their
arrival to the natives. It rained a good deal, and there was not much
to do but to loaf on the beach. Here, one day, I saw an interesting
method of fishing by poisoning the water, which is practised in many
places. At low tide the natives rub a certain fruit on the stones of
the reef, the juice mixes with the water in the pools and poisons
the fish, so that after a short while they float senseless on the
surface and may easily be caught.
After a few days I was anxious to return to the Segond Channel,
as I expected the arrival of the English steamer, which I wanted to
meet. I could not find any guide, and the cutter was to stay for some
days longer, so I decided to go alone; the distance was only about
15 km., and I thought that with the aid of my compass I would find
my way along the trail which was said to exist.
I started in the morning with a few provisions and a dull bush-knife,
at first along a fairly good path, which, however, soon divided
into several tracks. I followed the one which seemed most likely to
lead to my destination, but arrived at a deep lagoon, around which
I had to make a long detour. Here the path came to a sudden stop in
front of an impenetrable thicket of lianas which I could hardly cut
with my knife. I climbed across fallen trunks, crawled along the
ground beneath the creepers, struck an open spot once in a while,
passed swamps and rocks,--in short, in a very little time I made an
intimate acquaintance with the renowned Santo bush. Yet I imagined
I was advancing nicely, so much so that I began to fear I had gone
beyond my destination. About four o'clock in the afternoon I struck
a small river and followed its crooked course to the coast, so as to
get my bearings. Great was my disappointment on finding myself only
about 1 1/2 km. from the lagoon which I had left in the morning. This
was a poor reward for eight hours' hard work. I was ashamed to return
to the cutter, and followed the shore, not wishing to repeat that
morning's experience in the forest. The walk along the beach was not
agreeable at all, as it consisted of those corroded coral rocks,
full of sharp points and edges, and shaped like melted tin poured
into water. These rocks were very jagged, full of crevices, in which
the swell thundered and foamed, and over which I had to jump. Once I
fell in, cut my legs and hands most cruelly and had only my luck to
thank that I did not break any bones, and got safely out of the damp,
dark prison. But at least I could see where I was, and that I was
getting on, and I preferred this to the uncertain struggle in the
forest. In some places the coast rose to a high bank, round which
I could not walk. I had to climb up on one side as best I could
and descend on the other with the help of trees and vines. Thus,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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