The remnants of the great mausoleum of Augustus,--in which not only he
but many of his successors were interred,--are not now sought out by
many except students of antiquities. The last of the emperors buried
here was Nerva. Near the river Tiber, on what was then the Campus
Martius or field of Mars, on a great platform of stone, now beneath the
ground, rose the huge circular building of two stories, in which were
the chambers for the dead. Augustus was buried in the central chamber,
which was covered with a dome. From this radiated fourteen smaller
ones, most of which can now be traced, though in a ruined condition.
Above these was a pyramidal mound of earth in terraces planted with
cypress trees and surmounted with a large statue of the emperor
himself. The whole was surrounded by an attractive park.
For centuries the monument was well known to the people. War,
earthquake and neglect have now made its ruins one of the least
conspicuous sights in Rome, but some will ever find in them a deep
pathetic interest. After some searching I found the entrance to them
not far from the Via Di Ripetta. Upon my application, the custodian,
who was an old woman, admitted me from a sort of court, where I
could look up at a part of the circular exterior and where there
was a fountain at the side. An inscription tablet let into the wall
informs the visitor (in Latin) that here is the western wall of the
mausoleum of Augustus disclosed by the removal of buildings. What
seemed to be electric wires, stretched down along the side of the
building, suggested a curious connection between the beginning of
the first century and the beginning of the twentieth. Within the
structure I paced the corridors, gazed at the arched ceiling, and
could see out through the large windows into the central space. In the
twelfth century the central dome was thrown down by an earthquake.
Afterward the center was used as an open-air arena and was occupied
by a popular circus until a few years ago. At the time of my visit
it was a storehouse for the great plaster models for the sculptures
to be placed on the new monument that was building to the memory of
King Victor Emmanuel. The Egyptian obelisks, forty-five feet high,
which stood before the entrance in the first century, now are to be
found, one of them in front of the Quirinal Palace,--which is the
royal residence,--and the other one in the square by the great church
of Santa Maria Maggiore. Thus, long ago rifled of its contents, the
burial-place of the celebrated master of the ancient world has stood
for centuries, broken and neglected.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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