Vacation days in GreeceRichardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
History
Vacation days in Greece
Richardson, Rufus B. (Rufus Byam)
Greece -- Description and travel
It is curious to see how different have been the estimates of the
height of this mountain, according as one wished to make it the site
of the Homeric Ithaca or not. And, indeed, the figures given in
different books which might be supposed to rest on measurements vary
also. Probably the figures given by Partsch, 380 metres, are correct.
This would make the top about 1,200 feet above the sea level, but only
about half that above the high ground over which the road from Bathy
passes to the mooring place--it can hardly be called a harbor--opposite
Samos. Partsch makes merry at "those whose faith can not only remove
mountains, but also make them lower than they actually are, and who
speak of the run up the steep sides of Aëtos as if it were only a
matter of half an hour." I was in my turn amused to find that in my
eagerness to go up this height and down again as soon as possible,
in order to take our boat back to Samos, I had made the ascent in
considerably less than half an hour. Perhaps the fleet-footed shepherd
boy who led me up may have taken me along a good deal faster than
Partsch would have gone making his way alone. He ought, however, to
have looked out not to spoil a good case by underrating the powers of
English pedestrians.
At half-past three we reached the shore, where our boat was tied by
the stern cables waiting for us, and we set sail for Samos in such a
splendid breeze from the north which had just sprung up, right on our
quarter, that no Homeric ship ever sped over the waters with more life
than ours. In just one hour and five minutes we landed in Samos, in
time for me, though tired, to wander before dark over the high hills
containing the acropolis of Samos, the remaining walls of which are
most impressive.
The next morning, starting with a carriage at half-past three, we
were at eight o'clock in Argostoli. During the slow ascent I kept my
eyes fastened upon Ithaca every moment when it was possible to do so.
I wanted to see the sunlight once more illumine that long chain of
four separate peaks stretched out in the sea from north to south; but
before sunrise we had already got into the gorge through which the
road pushes up to the top. Our first sight of the island was in the
evening twilight and our last in the morning twilight. As I thought it
over afterward I could not help thinking that there was an especial
propriety in this; for was not Ithaca pre-eminently a land of twilight?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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